I did my first multipitch with the WRONG shoes...need suggestions.

I just completed 500 feet of granite crack and slab climbing and my feet hated me. But multipitch was a blast and I want to do more, so I'd like some shoe suggestions.
I was wearing La Sportiva Muiras, which I suppose aren't the absolute worst, but I'm looking for a very comfortable, moccasin-type shoe for women that would be a little less painful and would also handle slab climbing decently.

Thanks..

La Spotiva Mythos, if you have liked/fit Sportivas.
Nothing with a curled down toe, at least.

Even slightly stiffer shoes can do great on slabs, if you match the foot to the slope, and offer more support so as to not fatigue you. IE: TC Pros are OK for me at Sz 10 and 172lbs.

But smaller climbers won't get the flex out of a shoe like that that those in the Clydesdale (LARGE) and Quarter-horse (still fairly large) classes are going to get, so if you are and Arabian, (ultra-light with small feet), consider the fact that the shoe, although the same design, will flex far less on a smaller platforms with a lower load.\

Best of luck!

Jesus. You fall in the Clydesdale division at 172 lbs?! Shit. I guess I would classify as Obese at 192 lbs!

I gotta say go for the 5.10 Moccasyms. I sized mine down a whole size from my regular, day walking shoes and they feel great. I'm even contemplating getting another pair and sizing them down a half size for the ultimate, all-day, multi-pitch comfortable shoe.

If you like that shoe, take it off after every pitch. I regularly climb long route 500'-1500' with the same shoe I wear for single pitch. I have just become accustom to removing after every pitch like i do on the ground. if its easy terrain then we simul climb. flat shoes like the mocc and the mythos are the least performance shoe ever designed. if you have to edge or get on difficult terrain they will do you no good at all. find a shoe that is comfortable but performs well, something you can wear for say 2-3 pitches most without removing. that will be your shoe.

How hard were you climbing? For east face flatiron routes (5.0 - 5.7 ) I use 5.10 coyotes or approach shoes. Katanas are my regular shoe.

I feel ya...if you do find something good, I'll have to find size 15. Been stuck with evolv defy's because they have my size. Would like to get TC pros, but they don't go that big.

5.10 Mocs with good footwork will get you up anything within reason and give you happy (although red) feet at the end of the day. Ask Sharma about dreamcatcher..

Moccasym for crack and slab. Or any slipper or Velcro show in a comfortable size that you can slip off at belays. Screw that cramped, curl toe nonsense that used to be necessary when shoes and rubber sucked or you were bouldering V-hard.

Jplotz wrote:Jesus. You fall in the Clydesdale division at 172 lbs?! Shit. I guess I would classify as Obese at 192 lbs!

Nah, I'm quarterhorse at 170lbs + (for under 6') and I'd put you in/near the Clydesdale class at close to 200#.
Nothing wrong with that. I bet you wouldn't ask me to carry more stuff out of your pack like a few tinkerbells I climb with do!

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:If you like that shoe, take it off after every pitch. I regularly climb long route 500'-1500' with the same shoe I wear for single pitch. I have just become accustom to removing after every pitch like i do on the ground. if its easy terrain then we simul climb. flat shoes like the mocc and the mythos are the least performance shoe ever designed. if you have to edge or get on difficult terrain they will do you no good at all. find a shoe that is comfortable but performs well, something you can wear for say 2-3 pitches most without removing. that will be your shoe.

I suppose sponsors speak loud and clear then, as world cups have been won on shoes like (including) the Mythos. I'd also wager it is the best selling shoe of all time.
I find it more than sufficient for climbing things like Crest Jewel (1000+', 5.10 slab) without being uncomfortable or removing it.

Dylan G wrote:I gotta say go for the 5.10 Moccasyms. I sized mine down a whole size from my regular, day walking shoes and they feel great. I'm even contemplating getting another pair and sizing them down a half size for the ultimate, all-day, multi-pitch comfortable shoe.

Do they make the Mocs for women?

Jplotz wrote:Jesus. You fall in the Clydesdale division at 172 lbs?! Shit. I guess I would classify as Obese at 192 lbs!

Anything north of 190 is MOG-status.

La Sportiva TC Pros were made for varied multipitch climbs. If they fit your feet, there's probably nothing better.

That said, I also like a velcro-strap shoe that I can easily get on and off at the belays without wasting time unlacing and lacing. If you rig them with elastic "ankle bracelets" so that you can take them off anywhere without worrying about dropping them, then I'd go with a shoe that seems to work well for you and is the most comfortable.

rgold wrote:La Sportiva TC Pros were made for varied multipitch climbs. If they fit your feet, there's probably nothing better. That said, I also like a velcro-strap shoe that I can easily get on and off at the belays without wasting time unlacing and lacing. If you rig them with elastic "ankle bracelets" so that you can take them off anywhere without worrying about dropping them, then I'd go with a shoe that seems to work well for you and is the most comfortable.

^^^ And they did a hell of a good job, BTW. Haven't climbed in a multi-purpose shoe that did that well right out of the box and was also COMFORTABLE in 30 years of climbing.

J Antin wrote: Anything north of 190 is MOG-status.

Straight from the horse's (Clydesdale) mouth.
Antin was one of the ones we coined the term for!

Maybe you have the right shoes, just the wrong size. I have many partners that climb multi pitch all day long in Muira's. If you really like the shoe, just get another pair 1/2 to 1 size bigger.

For shoes get the one that fits best

For moderate slab and cracks ... Ones where your toes are flat and not scrunches up tend to work well

Moderate trad climbing on granite is where you feet will "pump out" way before your hands

As to mocs and mythos ... Plenty a folks climb exceptionally hard in em

Sharma sent many hard climbs in mocs ... and huber has done butt cringing runnout hard face climbs in mythos

Personally i use a velcro pair for multi to easily take em off or loosen at belays

Realistically every serious climber should have 2 pairs of shoes .... A decently comfortable one for warm ups, laps and long multis ... And an aggressive pair for harder steeper climbing

;)

For multipitch, you can stick with Miuras. I have three pairs that are different sizes. One for easy trad (I can wear really thin socks with them), one for hardish trad, and one for bouldering/sport climbs.

^^^^ Exactly my point.

I like my Evolv Addicts a lot.

Me too, one pitch hard route Miuras, and another pair half a size larger for all day stuff, doesn't even cost more in the end as they wear out at half the pace when you mix them up.

Be careful to keep them marked or on biners...I did Cold Day in Hell once in two left Miuras...lol!

J Antin wrote: Anything north of 190 is MOG-status.

MOG?

To the OP: As far as the moccs go, I'm north of 200lbs and whilst I don't climb hard, some of the hardest climbing ive done has been in them. Super comfortable, but careful heel hooking, I've had my shoe pop off more than once on bouldering problems. I don't think they make a women's version. They're also a simple design and whilst not the cheapest shoes, not the most expensive by a long way. I think $115 is the MSRP.

If you try the TC Pro or Mythos and they don't fit but you like the stiffness, look at the 5.10 Anasazi Guides.

If you're looking for an all day shoe, make sure it's comfortable. 1/2 a size smaller can give you better performance but kill your feet if worn all day. 1/2 larger and you may not have such precision, but you'll be happy at the end of a long climb. I wish I'd gone up half a size in the Guides.

I climbed a day with one guy who had moccs that were so old and worn, I'd have retired them. Soles were original but worn way down. Just beat to hell. But he was really good in them! It made me think about how the shoes don't make the Climber. Others I climb with who are far better than me would prefer a comfy shoe to the slightly better performance of a tighter fit.