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Second Flatiron
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Compound, The 
Direct SE Arete T 
Dodge Block T 
Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route) T 
East Overhang T 
Free for All T 
Freeway T 
Freezeway T 
Gutter, The 
I Bleed T 
Koyannislotsqi 
North Crack T 
Overlooked Overhang T 
South East Arete/Second T 
South Sneak T 
Southeast Overhang T 
West Face [2nd Flatiron] T 
Yarbles, The 
Unsorted Routes:

I Bleed 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Long Ranger
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Long Ranger on May 14, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: P1.

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  • Description 

    There's a place
    In the buried west
    In a cave
    With a house in it
    In the clay
    The holes of hands
    You can place
    A hand in hand
    I bleed
    I bleed
    I bleed.

    P1. Start on a boulder right of a large tree that guards the entrance to a natural arch. Climb up on good holds on the actual route. Once off the boulder and on the route, the exposure will hit right right away, as the rock is overhanging. Gain the entrance way of a deep, vertical chimney with tons of features. Climb the chimney, traverse out climber's right (crux, 5.6) on good holds.

    P2. (5.4) Once above the chimney, cross over the top to climber's left, and climb a slabby bulge to discover a second chimney. This chimney is a parallel slot that leans to the east - a perfect size to climb inside. Top out, and walk off to escape the rest of the route to the west, OR:

    P3. At the top of the second slot chimney, scramble down the gully on broken terrain to its end where the gully cliffs out. Your objective is to climb over the wall to the north (crux, 5.6). Traverse up and over into a incredible narrow ribbon of slab that will take you NW to the top of the South Block. The terrain will be similar to the South Sneak - footholds seemed chiseled into the rock, and the scrambling here is delightful. Exit slightly before the end of this literal ladder to the top; scramble to the top of South Block.

    BONUS: cross the gully between the South Block and the Pullman Car, and climb up Southside to finish up on the summit of the Second Flatiron.

    Location 

    GPS coordinates: N39.98881° W105.29319°.

    This is on the South side of the South Block. It may be easiest to hike up the First/Second Flatiron trail to the top, then head south, hugging the South Block. The terrain will start breaking up with large boulders to scramble down. Look for the arch and a large tree growing to its south. The start of the route is on a boulder, just east of this tree.

    Protection 

    Sparse, if any. Consider this a solo.


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