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I Am The Walrus 

YDS: 5.14a/b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a/b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Page Views: 2,134
Submitted By: Elliott Bates on Sep 30, 2016

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Mid-tufa section. Photo by @bearcam.

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  • Description 

    The King Line of the Flatirons proper, "I am the Walrus" is a 150 foot beast of a pitch that is the most difficult and one of the longest sport routes in the Flatirons. Originally bolted by Jonathan Siegrist in 2012, the route sat uncleaned and unclimbed for a few years while JStar was crushing in Europe. Impatient locals who had sent the other Seal Routes began pestering Siegrist about the project, and Jonathan graciously gave permission to his friend Elliott Bates to clean, work, and even re-bolt the line if needed.

    Ultimately Bates felt the route would climb more naturally between two long tufa features and moved 8 bolts about 6 feet right of the original line.

    Siegrist returned from Europe in June of 2015, and Bates showed him the new line, having cleaned and sussed the route. 3 tries later, Jstar made the 1st ascent of I am the Walrus and claimed 14b.

    The route begins with about 7 bolts of tech 5.12, leading to 50 feet of technical, powerful, and truly incredible climbing between the tufa features (the Walrus tusks), with two distinct cruxes in this section: the 1st one beginning nearly 80 feet up, the second at almost 100 feet. After a good rest, climb 3 bolts of left-trending and slightly runout 12-, before tackling the most difficult moves of the route, a V9 boulder problem between the last bolt and the anchors.

    "The Walrus" has 14 bolts and many cruxes that are both technical and powerful. Dynamic movement, subtle trickery, kneebars, some choss but mostly great stone...This route has it all!

    Location 

    It is left of Choose Life.

    Protection 

    Bolts, and a 70m rope is mandatory.


    Photos of I Am The Walrus Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: This route doesn't suck, not one bit.
    This route doesn't suck, not one bit.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great route....
    Great route....

    Comments on I Am The Walrus Add Comment
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    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 14, 2016

    Certainly a great route, although is definitely more chossy than its neighbors. I'm guessing it will clean up over time just like the other routes. I also find some moves to be unpleasant if you're short, especially exiting the tufa feature with a shoulder wrenching gaston move at full extension. Overall, I'm psyched for this addition and certainly having a route of this difficulty level so close to home. Thanks, J Star and Elliot!
    By Elliott Bates
    Oct 25, 2016

    Curt, I think you need some fresh beta, man! There are 3-4 different ways to do each crux in the tufa section. I have seen shorter and taller dudes do each way, and none of them (that I've seen) involve a full-extension shoulder-wrenching gaston. Good luck, and shoot me a message if you want specifics.

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