REI Community
Bulo Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atomic Dust Buster S 
Barking Spider S 
Black Market Organ Donor T 
DaKind T,S 
Don't Call Me Ishmael S 
Drawin' A Blank S 
Flying Meatball T 
For The Love of God Alice Shut the Bathroom Door S 
I Am Not The Man S 
Inversion Excursion S 
Jet Stream S 
Jet Wind S 
Nook and Cranny T 
Plumber's Crack T 
Raiders of the Lost Rock T 
Return of Yoda S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Separated at Birth S 
Silence of the Cams S 

I Am Not The Man 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Jul 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

The hardest line at Bulo, this route seems a mystery to most and the line/beta is not very clear. In my time spent on this climb, I came up with three options for climbing this route:

Option #1- Make a few easy moves and clip the first bolt. From here, move leftwards towards the arete and climb the face and arete utilizing crimps and sidepulls with your right hand and the arete with your left. This line actually seems the most natural and logical and the second clip is fairly easy to make. After reaching the good edges above the second bolt, move right and up, finishing direct. This feels like low end 5.12 to me.

Option #2- Make a few easy moves and clip the first bolt. From here, head up and right on progressively worsening crimps to a hard lockoff to a decent crimp (crux). Match this crimp and move left to a bad gaston pocket. Find a foot, make a tricky move to another pocket with the right and on to the good edges with the left. Clip the second bolt and continue upwards on large holds to the chains. There is some groundfall potential on this one as it is easiest/best to clip the second bolt after reaching the good hold above it. This feels like mid to hard 5.12 to me.

Option #3- This could be the intended line, but it climbs somewhat contrived. Start the same as the other options. After reaching the first bolt, climb directly (just right of the bolt line) utilizing a few mighty small crimps and a gaston or two. The crux involves deadpointing to a decent crimp with the right while not losing contact with the left. There is also groundfall potential on this option as clipping the second bolt before reaching the good edges is nearly impossible. This feels more like low end 5.13 to me.

The rock on this route is some of the best at Bulo and each one of these options is fantastic. They are all good tests of technique, footwork and finger strength.

Location 

This route is located in the Main Area to the left of 'Plumbers Crack' and 'Return Of Yoda'. It climbs the obvious thin slab.

Protection 

2 bolts


Comments on I Am Not The Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 18, 2013

I chose to list all of the 'options' for this climb in the hopes of spurring discussion and/or providing clarity for those interested in climbing this line.

It seemed somewhat contrived to climb the line direct when you could easily move left (to the arete) or right (basically climbing the right edge of the face for a few moves) and still clip the bolts as intended.

But, I'd love to hear other people's thoughts/opinions/insight!
By dmPete
Aug 24, 2015

Christian, thanks for listing the "options" in the route's description. I tried all three for this route. Couldn't figure out the center or right variations. Both seemed harder than what I currently climb, so high-12/low-13, feels like it's definitely in the right direction at least.

The left variation felt like it had a technical 12a-ish crux to me for the one or two moves it takes to traverse to the arete after the first bolt, after that, it eases significantly. Additionally, like you said, it makes the second clip much less committing, and avoids risking the potential ground fall described in options 2,3.

The Northwest Oregon Rock book calls this climb "Fat Rabbit"...anyone know what that's all about?
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 24, 2015

I believe the original name refers to the 12+ variation going straight up. The name listed here I would guess is in reference to cutting left out of the hard climbing.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 24, 2015

Yah, I'm not really sure what the story is with the names. Micah might be right though, as that name would fit that variation well. :) Micah, since you're an Admin, feel free to change anything with the description/names if you think it's necessary. I used to spend the summers up on Mt. Hood, but it's been a while since I've been in that area so I'm pretty out of the loop now and certainly not a local by any stretch. I got the names from the older 'Rock Climbing Oregon' book, printed by Falcon.

I've always been a fan of hard slab/face climbs, as it's one of my favorite styles of climbing, so I always found this climb appealing. I enjoyed all the variations I listed above and I definitely recommend this climb!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About