REI Community
The Waltz Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bohemian Flares T 
Dirty Dancing T 
Funky Dynamics T 
I am a Wicked Child (2nd pitch) T 
Paso Doble T,S 
Schuhplattler T 
Slam Dance T 
Too Hot to Tango T 
Unnamed T 
Waltz, The T 

I am a Wicked Child (2nd pitch) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: A. Whitmore,S. Hoffman (Fall 2010)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Andrew M Whitmore on May 11, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: I am a Wicked Child 2nd Pitch Topo/Photo

Description 

From the first pitch of "I am a Wicked Child" move belay to pruned tree up and left below a open corner roof. Climb up and place a medium stopper. A 15' V4/5 boulder problem with tough gear leads to a series of left-trending hanging corners. One bolt marks the exit of the corners to a horizontal break with a small pine. At this point start placing all manner of small gear. Step onto the bulging face via a 5.10+ move and climb 50' of flared crack to a tough face finish with large fall potential (2"-3" gear needed). Clip anchors or climb 10' of fourth class and gear belay (hands sized) to the walk-off top of The Waltz 3rd Tier.

Location 

North side of The Waltz formation above "Funky Dynamics".

Protection 

RP's to 3". Extra shoulder-length slings.


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