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I Am A Machine 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, John Steiger, 1987
Season: year round
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: slim on May 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

This is a great, old Shelf route that features some cool climbing on improbable pockets at a reasonable grade.

Start up the left side of the orange dihedral on climbing that isn't hard, but the rock is a bit friable. Get established near the semi-hanging, spooky flake beneath the bulge, try to get a peek at the climbing above, and launch upwards through really fun pocket pulling.

The rock through the bulge and above is excellent, and the climbing is really fun.

Location 

This is on the right half of the Spontaneous Combustion Wall. It is the first route to the left of Pinhead. Start up an orange, slightly chossy dihedral.

Protection 

Approximately 7 bolts plus anchors.


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By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Dec 18, 2014

Hardware uograde by Nate 11/21/14.
Top anchor supplied Bruno Hache, a few spinner SMC hangers lead bolts re-drilled with ASCA.
Special thanks to ASCA for the hardware.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 24, 2016

Thanks, Bruno, for the rebolt. How this climb is not four star and classic status is beyond me. Fantastic upper crux in the black bulge is a lot like New Ethics. Rad rock climb!
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route deserves much more traffic. The upper headwall has some incredible pockets and great flow. The bottom 2-3 bolts is definitely throw away climbing and detracts a bit, but the upper part is completely worth it.

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