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Overview & Waterfall
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Awakening S 
Blaupunkt S 
Cold Ass Honkies S 
Dodgy Vixen, The S 
Hair Nation T 
Hysteria S 
Sportklettern S 
Totally High Maintenance S 
Variation to Hysteria S 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: T. Kuss
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Tim Kuss on Jun 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Climb the gamble oak leaning against the rock to start. Four bolts protect the traversing slab and arete/corner. Continue from the ledge up the techy slab into the shallow corner (hard) and water streak. This shares first four bolts and anchor with "Totally High Maintenance" which forks off right from ledge.


This is 50 feet left of waterfall - start on a tree. Lower from anchor 30m.


Twelve bolts.

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By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jun 14, 2009

This route is among the best in the area.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Apr 6, 2011

It might be quite a bit harder than .12b.... 'Bout time for someone else to get on it? C'mon, man!
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Jun 13, 2011

Tim, what is the route name that starts just left of the broken off oak tree? It starts right off the ground with a tough bouldery move (12aish), then traverses left under a roof for 10m then straight up to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. There is a bolt line that we followed, but we did not start off of a tree. It is located left of the broken off tree, but right of the oak leaning against the wall. For the second pitch, I think we did Totally High Maintenance. We followed a bolt line that went through the huecos (10+ish). These were two of the best pitches at East A if you ask me. I'd put them at a strong 4 stars.
By Matt Pickren
Aug 20, 2013

Really good route, thin and technical, I think the rating is right on. Good find.

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