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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 3, 2007

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a 4-star line, for sure, but the quality of the rock is not on par. Still a worthy route.

An awesome #.75/#1 Camalot sized layback (wish it kept going) takes you to a crack in the face which splits off from the now wide corner. Definitely some looseness here and wedged blocks to yard (softly) on. Gently stuff yourself underneath the roof (#3 Camalot) and surf out left. Don't go over the falls! This tricky but cool move/rest sets you up to place Yellow Alien size pro which will protect as you undercling, jam and stretch for the wide crack of Arms Race and a welcome no hands, perfect knee lock rest. Cool layback and jamming continues to a junky manchor which is best bypassed to a set of Fixe rings out left (30M communal rap).


Double set from Green Alien to #3 Camalot sized cams and a couple med nuts. 60M rope.

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