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The Sugar Cube
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Hypocrisy's Promise S 
Match-Up Left S 
Match-Up, The S 

Hypocrisy's Promise 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: RMWright, Bert Honea, Fall 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 17, 2008

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Description 

HP starts off a block on the edge of the west face. A short, crimpy start to jugs gives way to solid edge climbing as the route winds left to the arete proper. I had originally installed the route with the intent of knocking it off at the first good opportunity along with the other two routes on the crag. A TNB session at the gym left me with a ripped rotator cuff and fully dislocated shoulder, and no climbing for a while as the shoulder repairs. Bert snagged the FFA without any knowledge of my injury. I guess that's life when we go 'red-tagless". HP is okay, largely very solid, a wee bit devious, and sets up a good TR for the hard stuff on the left.

Location 

Furthest right of three routes on the West arete of TSC.

Protection 

Ten draws and a rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 28, 2009

Running this route again in September, I'd lean toward 5.11- for the opening sequence.