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Hypnagogic Jerk 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jason Halladay, Walt Whetham, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on May 28, 2014

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Some big, fun moves on this little number. Februar...

Description 

The sustained, slightly overhanging nature of this shortie route will keep you wide awake.
Sustained moves on generally good holds on steep rock keep you pumped as you aim for not-quite-as-good-as-they-look scoops and dishes on the steep face to a neat little tufa-like pinch. Finish on lower-angle, licheny rock past one more bolt to the anchors.

Short and full value. Likely 11+ or so for taller climbers. A bit more difficult for shorties.

Location 

The center route at the Sleeper. Shares anchors with Nocturnal Urinator to the right.

Protection 

Six bolts to chains with steel lowering biners


Photos of Hypnagogic Jerk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinching the neat tufa-like pinch at the top of th...
Pinching the neat tufa-like pinch at the top of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hypnagogic Fritz! May 2014.
Hypnagogic Fritz! May 2014.

Comments on Hypnagogic Jerk Add Comment
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By Garçon Rouge
May 23, 2017

The obvious hold for making the clip above and left of the second bolt exploded on me yesterday. There is still a great hold a little deeper on the same feature, but it's not as obvious. I don't think it really changes the difficulty of the route though.

Fun, challenging route for those of us pushing into this grade.

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