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Sugarloaf, West Face
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. Harrison, J. Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 3,698
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Hyperspace


Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs.


Pro to 1.5".

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 22, 2007

small gear up high on this one, green and blue alien. Also, when the crack starts traversing right, you can step high and clip a fixed pin. The party that did this ahead of us told us to watch out for the rope getting caught in the flake. not extending your cams after you clip a looong sling on the pin achieves this.
By Joseph Myers
Apr 3, 2008

Hyperspace is a wonderful thin crack to an undercling where stamina and collected nerves will see you through to the anchors after a traverse back left.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

A swell climb!
By Phil Esra
Apr 15, 2012

Really, really fun. Bring small to medium nuts for the vertical part and small cams for the traverse.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great climbing, I thought the flake was a bit spooky and fragile. I opted not to put a whole lot of gear behind it. One green camelot in the first jug undercling, then a bit of a runout through the traverse up and right. Spooky for a heavy guy like me feeling that flake flex... I don't think gear would hold behind that flake after teh crux.... PG-13! Who's with me?
By fivefun
Apr 6, 2017

There is no longer a fixed pin though there always seems to be some fixed gear.
By mpech
Jun 1, 2017

quite fun, wish it was longer. the flake is solid and the gear is good, i don't know what people are talking about.

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