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Sugarloaf, West Face
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. Harrison, J. Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 3,522
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Hyperspace


Way up left on the West Face, climb a thin crack and fragile flake to a ledge. Turn an overhang on the right and follow knobs.


Pro to 1.5".

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 22, 2007

small gear up high on this one, green and blue alien. Also, when the crack starts traversing right, you can step high and clip a fixed pin. The party that did this ahead of us told us to watch out for the rope getting caught in the flake. not extending your cams after you clip a looong sling on the pin achieves this.
By Joseph Myers
Apr 3, 2008

Hyperspace is a wonderful thin crack to an undercling where stamina and collected nerves will see you through to the anchors after a traverse back left.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

A swell climb!
By Phil Esra
Apr 15, 2012

Really, really fun. Bring small to medium nuts for the vertical part and small cams for the traverse.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great climbing, I thought the flake was a bit spooky and fragile. I opted not to put a whole lot of gear behind it. One green camelot in the first jug undercling, then a bit of a runout through the traverse up and right. Spooky for a heavy guy like me feeling that flake flex... I don't think gear would hold behind that flake after teh crux.... PG-13! Who's with me?
By fivefun
Apr 6, 2017

There is no longer a fixed pin though there always seems to be some fixed gear.

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