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Hyperform Wall
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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Dirk Tyler & Lynn Wheeler, 1978
Page Views: 3,428
Submitted By: Joe Auer on Aug 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Wheels at the crux, near the end of the second pit...


This route starts in the prominent dihedral towards the left end of the wall.

P1. Jam up a long corner with two pods providing difficulties.

P2. Short pitch. A fingercrack leads to a pumpy rightward shuffle to a belay ledge.

P3. The obvious wide crack staring at you. It's nice to have a cam bigger than a #4 Friend on this pitch.

P4. Stacked vertical blocks. Though scary looking, there is decent pro and the climbing is much easier than the previous pitches.


Double set stoppers/cams. One #4 Camalot or equivalent for third pitch.

Photos of Hyperform Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Behold! (Cue 'Flight of the Valkyrie')
Behold! (Cue 'Flight of the Valkyrie')
Rock Climbing Photo: Full picture of route
Full picture of route
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the finger crack to hand traverse. B...
Contemplating the finger crack to hand traverse. B...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean part way up P1
Sean part way up P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1. Full 60m pitch
Pitch 1. Full 60m pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 chimney on left, with the crux traverse in...
Pitch 2 chimney on left, with the crux traverse in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 wide crack
Pitch 3 wide crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 chimney before the cruxy traverse
Pitch 2 chimney before the cruxy traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the corner. Sweet!
Looking down the corner. Sweet!
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 1 corner
pitch 1 corner

Comments on Hyperform Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 16, 2012

How hasn't anyone commented on this route yet? The book gives this one 3 stars as it should. Superb route. Great rock quality, great belay ledges, bomber gear, do this one!

Pitch 1-mostly hands/wide hands. Use your #2-#3 camalots wisely here. A #4 camalot is also useful for one of the crux pods. A full 200' pitch here. We had a 70m and it only had 20 feet or so left starting on the ground. You can start higher on the big block too. Great belay ledge on top of pitch 1, with a fixed sling/nut thing or use small tcu sized gear for belay.
Pitch 2- Chimney start with about 3 crack sizes for gear. This leads to cruxy thin finger locks(long reach helpful) to the horizontal hand traverse. Be ready with a .75/1 camalot here. Punch it to the right. Short pitch, zesty. #3 camalots for belay.
Pitch 3- Wide hands for about 30 feet. A few nut placements and one blue tcu option exist in cracks out right, but obviously you will need 2 #3 camalots for this section. I found a #4 was too big for most of the crack but fits near the roof, and is helpful on pitch 1 as well. No need to fret though if you don't have one. Then romp up the loose stacked blocks to the top. Walk off west for 10 minutes, then find easy downclimb and back to your packs.
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you're up in the cirque, definitely go get on this climb. This route is just as classic as the center thumb or Lowe route with excellent varied climbing. The first pitch is looong so conserve those #2's and #3's. The corner on P1 is like the start of the Lowe route but longer and more sustained.
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with the previous comments. This is one of the best routes in the cirque. Don't stand in line to get on triple overhangs or center thumb, this route is generally empty and is probably even better climbing.
I did use the #4 camalot on pitch one and three. You could get by without it, but it makes the pitch 3 crux way less scary. If I would have had three #3 camalots, they would have been used, but I was fine with two. Also, linked pitch 3-4 with no problem. All in all, I loved this route and would recommend it to anyone comfortable at 5.10.
By Derrick W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first pitch has got to be the best handcrack in the Wasatch. Bring doubles (at least) of 2 and 3 or be prepared to run it out. The last pitch is not so great.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 14, 2015

Ya, careful on that last pitch - there are some very precarious looking blocks.
The anchor on top of the first pitch is in bad shape, so bring some new cord/slingage if you plan on doing only the first pitch.
By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This might be the best route I've climbed in Lone Peak. I'm not quite sure the #4 was necessary for this climb. My partner used it and a #3.5 to protect the pods on pitch 1, but I couldn't find a single spot to use them on the offwidth pitch (#3s all the way).
By greyson
From: SLC, UT
Jul 12, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

What an awesome route, one of the best i've done anywhere. pitch 3 is hardly an offwidth. I never even put one side of my body in. more like a wide hands crack IMO. As everyone else has said the #4 isn't necessary but if you bring it there are plenty of places to use it on pitches 1, 3 and 4. Also linking the last two pitches didn't have too bad of rope drag but building a belay near the top required a little more creativity.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Jul 13, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This route is super good.

p1 - Super long with great jams and gear the whole way. Endurance.
p1 - Chimney with a thin hands/finger crack to a ledge. From there finger james to a cruxy juggy traverse.
p3 - Wide hands to OW to hand crack. Not as bad as it looks. #4 not necessary but can be used.
p4 - blocks to the top.

I dont see any reason to pitch out 3&4. Combine w/ a 60m.

Walk off to the climbers right. Super good!

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