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Hyper Sloth 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 145'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: SA, Andy Peters
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

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Although one of the very last routes to be established on this wall, this climb is great, and contains multiple cruxes, the two hardest of which come at the end. Even though the line is recommended to be climbed in one long pitch, there is a belay anchor at 95 feet to facilitate a more reasonable two-pitch ascent. As this route utilizes nearly one-third of its total length from starting and finishing on already established climbs, it is not a completely a new route, but the amount of new climbing is well over 60%, and thereby has been deemed worthy of a separate entry as a complete line. This is perhaps the route Sloth should have been, instead of the minor variation that was originally established. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Start by climbing the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral (5.10) on the Best of Both Worlds, but at the small roof (formed by a safely wedged block) continue up the right-leaning crack (instead of stepping left as for the Best of Both Worlds.) This crack continues up past another interesting section (5.10-) then reaches belay anchors slightly left of the crack on a small ledge. It is important to be cautious when making the final moves onto this belay ledge as the stacked blocks on its right end are detached but safe to move past (do NOT protect in these blocks!) Pro to 3”, 95 feet.

Variation - 5.10- * By starting the route on Flexible Flyer, and traversing over onto the main crack system in the vicinity of the small roof formed by the safely wedged block mentioned above, the pitch can be climbed to the first belay station at a moderate grade without doing the upper section. Pro to 3”, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 – Up and right from the belay ledge are three bolts protecting hard (5.10+) moves that lead to a short section of crack that reaches the vertical right-facing corner below the Sloth roof finish. The Sloth finish (see the description below under Flexible Flyer for details) is 5.10+ and a fine finale. A two bolt belay anchor is found directly above and slightly left of the roof finish on a small ledge. Pro to 3½”, 55 feet.


3 bolts, pro to 3.5", anchors.

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