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Utahnics Wall
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Celestial T,TR 
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Utahnics S 

Hype Dependent 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Anderson & Brent Hadley, April 2001
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Mar 10, 2011

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Description 

Fun moves on excellent rock: A diamond in the rough. Climb up slabs to a ledge below the steep arete. Clip the second bolt then setup for a powerful dyno followed by steep climbing up big jugs.

Location 

See topo

Protection 

4 bolts


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By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Sep 1, 2011

Couldn't figure the dyno. There's a big pinch in the middle of the route just below the 2nd bolt. Folks with a big reach (not me) might be able to use the arete to the left to get up to the juggy part.

This route can be top-roped, if you don't mind an airy swing on a fall.

I'd like to work this route, but it is a long walk up that steep boulder field... I might not get back there soon...
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 8, 2016

It was originally done by, and still is by myself and anyone I've seen, with the left hand out on the arete (as its own pinch) and a throw from there with the right pinch to the horizontal, whether short or tall. That's the crux. I'm tall, so it's less of a dyno, but still kinda dynamic.

Also, the Schoolroom really isn't as far up there as I think it appears. With a good continuous pace, with rack and rope, you should be able to get up to the wall in 20-25 minutes.