REI Community
f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Don't Shoot T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

Hyjek's Horror 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Mike Hyjek and John Lomont (1963)
Page Views: 1,911
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: the start (cheater stones not necessary)


Don't let the name fool you - this is a a nice face route. It's been getting more polished over the years. Sometimes it's hard to find it open because guides work it, and it's a very popular TR/group hangout.

This one is all about the footwork, baby.

P1 - Climb the thin face (crux) right of the Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack to a small projection just below a bulge. Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing with Triple Bulges.

Rappel from the first pitch from a tree, or bolts above Northern Pillar. From the cliff top, rappel from the top of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.


On the Guides' Wall, just right of the prominent hand crack (Finger Locks or Cedar Box) and a tree.


Standard rack. There is good gear, but get a good spot since you'll be doing the crux moves before you get the good gear.

Comments on Hyjek's Horror Add Comment
Show which comments
By doligo
Jun 21, 2010

The crux is easier if you're tall. Gear beta: purple C3 fits perfectly in the first horizontal, from there if you can reach the next horizontal, you're golden.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

What a sweet little climb! Leading this climb was suuuuuuch great experience for me. Be careful! Gear is good but there are definitely a few moves you really don't want to fall on. I used the purple cam down low as mentioned above.
By rogerbenton
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Overall, a great little pitch. I really enjoyed it.

I give it a "PG-13":
with a small c3 in that first horizontal and a sinker c4 in the next one, and with decent feet to fiddle them in, I don't see this as "R" rated. Get a good spot, yes, but look around before takeoff for the feet, they're there.
By Systematic
Jun 30, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

As with anything, you should carefully evaluate what you're getting yourself into. That said, this is a REALLY fun and satisfying lead. Especially if you enjoy thin face climbing.

I wasn't able to get the C3 placement (and if it's where I think it is, I don't think it would do much anyway). My first placement was a bomber C4 about ~15-20' up.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About