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Upper Measles Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cabin Fever T,TR 
Cat Scratch Fever S 
Chilblain T 
Craterface T 
El Muerte Rojo T 
Full Moon Fever S 
Hydrophobia T 
Little Fever T 
Short Person's Disease T 

Hydrophobia 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: April 3, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: April - October
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Apr 12, 2010

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Description 

Climb up to the crack on good holds, then follow the crack to its end. Step right and up (crux) to reach another crack; use this and the face on the left to reach a good ledge.
An oak tree lies right at the top; making a convenient TR anchor, but you may want directionals, as the cracks do slant away from it.

Location 

A discontinuous crack system near the right end of the Upper Measles Wall, with a lower, 20' long crack that ends about 10' off the ground.
Descent: walk climber's right off the ledge and back down around.

Protection 

Cams, Tri-cams, medium-large Stoppers


Photos of Hydrophobia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: FA of Hydrophobia.
FA of Hydrophobia.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Prince sharpending the route.
Mike Prince sharpending the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Ferkaluk, afraid of the water spilling down ...
Brian Ferkaluk, afraid of the water spilling down ...

Comments on Hydrophobia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

are u sure this isnt a 5.3+++. maybe its me but i would rather get a case of the measles than lead this again. way more challenging than it looks and fun none the less.
By Jay Harrison
Sep 13, 2012

Ben raises a good point. Measles Walls routes are a different breed; grading them is tricky. Much like first-time visitors to the Gunks feel the ratings there are horrendously sandbagged, only to adjust their opinions as they acclimate to the unusual conditions, so too at these crags.
Don't expect to lead anything here at your "usual" grade when you first visit. Notch it back several grades, more than you would usually do at an unfamiliar crag.
That said, once you've mastered the "Measles Wall Hop", you will begin to waltz up routes like Hydrophobia and Cracklosis, where there are not only those sloping divots, but cracks as well.

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