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Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
Pointlessness T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

Hydrogen Bondage 

M6-7 R

   
Type:  Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'
Original: M6-7 R [details]
FA: Ethan Gutmann and Ryan Vachon (2003)
Season: Winter
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: RWV on Apr 22, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: On the balance face.

Description 

I am sorry to say that I only reported this ascent to our lost friend, Jack R, back in 2002, and forgot to follow up since. I hope that others can confirm or add to what I share here.

The route that we ascended begins with the traverse to Mixed Emotions, but before you reach the ME business, cut straight up though a very obvious crack. The gear will happen in that lip, and then you can rest up on a ledge of rock or ice, depending on the conditions.

The route then continues up the face (occasional ice smears, depending upon the year) 20-30 feet to the left of Mixed Emotions. This part of the route is really precarious, and the tiny cams are hard to set. The line finishes at the large tree at the lip.

Location 

This is just to the left of Mixed Emotions.

Protection 

Tiny cams in challenging placements on the face.


Photos of Hydrogen Bondage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: At the top of the pitch.

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