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Hyalite Canyon

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Crocodile Rock 
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Twin Falls Area 
Unnamed Wall, The 
Winter Dance Area 
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From MP's sister site:

Hyalite Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.48986, -110.97951 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 83,434
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Josephson on Oct 31, 2008  with updates from Matt Wenger


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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Hyalite Reservoir November 2010

Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>


With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America. Hyalite Canyon also features some very high quality and popular gneiss rock climbing lower in the canyon at Practice Rock and Crocodile Rock, with a lesser visited volcanic area higher up in the canyon on the Magic Wall, among many other smaller obscure crags.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer – but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.

Getting There 

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.8 miles from here

93 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',46],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hyalite Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hyalite Canyon:
The Fat One   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   The Unnamed Wall
Twin Falls Left + Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Twin Falls Area
Lower Green Sleeves   WI2+     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Genesis Area
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250'   Twin Falls Area
The Dribbles   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'   Dribbles Area
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205'   The Unnamed Wall
Mummy II   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 140'   Mummy Area
The Elevator Shaft   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 115'   The Unnamed Wall
The Scepter   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Mummy Area
Genesis II   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 115'   Genesis Area
Genesis I   WI3+     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Genesis Area
5.6 Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Practice Rock
Strawberry Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Practice Rock
The Fiver   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Practice Rock
Blind Black Babies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Practice Rock
Rosebush Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Practice Rock
Wizards Well   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Practice Rock
Theoretically   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Practice Rock
Last of the Wild Ones Variation   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Practice Rock
Tough Trip Through Paradise   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Practice Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hyalite Canyon

Featured Route For Hyalite Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing the "rail"

Tough Trip Through Paradise 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Montana : Hyalite Canyon : Practice Rock
Great rock, engaging movement, and good protection all combine to make this yet another classic Practice Rock outing. The route shares the start with Last of the Wild Ones. Begin here (Just around the corner from the start of Theoretically) and ascend upwards for roughly 15 feet, clipping a bolt before coming head level with a rightward traversing rail. A bolt above the rail protects this first crux. Pay attention to your feet as you move past this traverse and gain a seam, then continue upward ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Montana

Photos of Hyalite Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunny Hyalite Goods
Sunny Hyalite Goods
Rock Climbing Photo: School Project
School Project
Rock Climbing Photo: Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions
Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions
Rock Climbing Photo: Some friends kept a Catalina 22 anchored on Hyalit...
Some friends kept a Catalina 22 anchored on Hyalit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hyalite summer
Hyalite summer
Rock Climbing Photo: The uber-classic G1 at night. Center flow. Climber...
The uber-classic G1 at night. Center flow. Climber...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rough map of the more popular areas in Hyalite.
BETA PHOTO: Rough map of the more popular areas in Hyalite.
Rock Climbing Photo: so many hidden gems of ice!
so many hidden gems of ice!
Rock Climbing Photo: Hyalite Goods
BETA PHOTO: Hyalite Goods
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning climb on G1
Morning climb on G1
Rock Climbing Photo: winter dance!
winter dance!
Rock Climbing Photo: climbers on the dribbles
climbers on the dribbles
Rock Climbing Photo: The Scepter
The Scepter

Comments on Hyalite Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Apr 3, 2012
If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody.
By danesherstad
Jan 5, 2014
I'm in Bozeman for a couple days (jan 5 to 8ish) and would love to get out in Hyalite. Anyone around and want to climb? Thanks!
By YoseMtnMan oesterreicher
Jan 17, 2014
I'm going to be in the area until 1/26/14. If anyone needs an ice climbing partner, let me know. I'm bringing my gear with me.
By Morrismc
From: Portland, Or
Nov 17, 2014
Question: when the road is plowed is it possible to get a two-wheel drive car up to the Reservoir? Or is 4WD/AWD required?

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