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Hwy 33/Ojai

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Derrydale Cliff 
Foothill Crag ("The Foot") 
Fortress, The 
Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering 
Matilija Wall 
Potrero John 
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) 
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Upper Foothill (The Hideout) 
Wheeler Gorge 
Wheeler Gorge (East Gully) 

Hwy 33/Ojai Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.4873, -119.303 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 121,902
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Salamanizer suchoski, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Forecast:
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Humboldt Lilies, growing along Hwy-33 above Ojai

Description 

The 2-lane California Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

  • Wheeler Gorge (aka Twin Tunnels) - 21.0 miles from the intersection of Hwy 101 and CA-33.
  • Pine Mountain - east of Hwy 33, north of Pine Mountain Inn, and 52.5 miles from the intersection of Hwy 101 and CA-33.

Getting There 

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

316 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',120],['2 Stars',97],['1 Star',65],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',11],['5.8',13],['5.9',27],['5.10',39],['5.11',18],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',72],['V2-3',29],['V4-5',38],['V6-7',14],['V8-9',11],['V10-11',7],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hwy 33/Ojai

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hwy 33/Ojai:
Rapunzel   V1 5 R     Boulder, 25'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Quiet Soul   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.a. Heaven on Top)   V3 6A     Boulder, 25'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Painted Carnival   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Picnic Area Boulders
To Die For   V4 6B     Boulder, 20'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Force of Magic   V5 6C     Boulder   Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : The Hideout
Sock Hop   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 20'   Pine Mountain : Lower Ridge
Dissing Euros   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds
Welcome to the Darkside   V9 7C     Boulder, 35'   Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge
Tree Root   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Pipe Cleaner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 160'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Edge of Night   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Ending Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Cobble Climb   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Cruiser   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Permanent Income Hypothesis   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   The Fortress : Right Side Gully
South of the Trout Farm   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Economique   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Wheeler Gorge
Riparian Daydream   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 220'   Wheeler Gorge
Silent Mind   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Wheeler Gorge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hwy 33/Ojai

Featured Route For Hwy 33/Ojai
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseph Stover in the "scoop" on New Ways...

New Ways to get from A to B V2 5+  California : Central Coast : ... : Happy Hunting Grounds
Use a couple of small vertical holds to get your right hand up onto the sloping ramp. From here, figure out a way to ascend the dihedral. Very tricky and unique problem that's worth figuring out....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Hwy 33/Ojai Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Natural Mystic
Natural Mystic
Rock Climbing Photo: Sespe Backcountry.
Sespe Backcountry.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Bury bouldering directly under Hwy 33 at Whee...
Alex Bury bouldering directly under Hwy 33 at Whee...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ojai Valley.
The Ojai Valley.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex Bury does a traverse at Wheeler Gorge
Alex Bury does a traverse at Wheeler Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew on a route in Wheeler Gorge, possible 5.12a...
Andrew on a route in Wheeler Gorge, possible 5.12a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheele...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Los Padres, including the Foot, Wheele...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview
BETA PHOTO: Hwy 33 (Ventura/Ojai) Overview

Comments on Hwy 33/Ojai Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008
Cool geological information about the Sespe Gorge area
By t-rev
Feb 7, 2009
Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route.
By C Runyan
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2009
t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2010
I spent a fair amount of time trying to get good access for Matilija. Got a guy who has "closed" the road to give me access but not to open the road to the public. We could get it open but no one seemed intereseted about fighting for it and the rangers were indifferent. This was for the West Camino Cielo access. You can still get there via a horrible scrample up from the res but it's ridiculous unless you want it badly, which is why I said in my guide that it's probably more time efficient to drive to the Sierra. If someone was was amped about the place and wanted to do some work I think decent access could be gained.
By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 12, 2010
I jus posted some pics of Matilija Wall, any takers?
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 6, 2012
For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 3, 2013
A workaday road that cuts through California's back story
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jan 10, 2017
Just a reminder to all that this wet weather significantly increases the risk of rockfall at our crags. Sespe has seen a couple occurrences in the last few weeks. A major event at Wheeler has changed the space around Economique as well. One look at the aftermath and you might agree that the gorge is best avoided during storms.

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