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Mt. Humphreys
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East Arete T 
Hutchinson Route T 
North Couloir Direct T 
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face T 

Hutchinson Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1800'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Edward and James Hutchinson, 1904
Season: Late summer
Page Views: 1,916
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 13, 2010

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Profile of Mt. Humphreys and Hutchinson Route take...


The route of first ascent in 1904.

Hike over Piute Pass and camp in Humphreys Basin, which is a high tundra like plateau west of the mountain.

Permits can be found here

Looking from Humphreys Basin there's a deep notch right of the main mass of the peak. A first right, then left slanting couloir heads up to it. Take this for a while until you can head left and into the south couloir, pass chockstones on the left at Class 4 until you reach a notch in the crest of the ridge (East Arete). This notch is known as "Married Men's Point" but I would advise you to keep going, even if you are married. The crux of the climb is next, a steep class 5 face for about 50 feet.

After this the wonderful summit is a short scramble away.

I recommend descending SW Slope and NW Face.


The south couloir to the right of the summit as seen from Humphreys basin.


Solo or rope and light rack.

Photos of Hutchinson Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View south from the south couloir (Humphreys).
View south from the south couloir (Humphreys).
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hutchinson Route.
BETA PHOTO: The Hutchinson Route.

Comments on Hutchinson Route Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 13, 2010

I soloed this route and descended the SW Slope and NW Face route in the mid 1980's. I didn't really want to reverse the class 5 face down to Married Men's Point, or the South Couloir for that matter.

One entry in the register said it all, "how the heck do I get down from here?"

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