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Gollum's Arch Rock
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Bikini Wax T,S 
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Hurlin' T,TR 
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Tufa Dreams T 
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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rick Hurley & Eli Helmuth, 7/02
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2005

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Ivan passes the fixed wire, which is about the end...

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This is an interesting, little route that is less travelled and is tucked in on a chunk of rock lying just below the main part of Gollum's Arch Rock. It is visible in S. Kimball's Lumpy Ridge guide on p.31 just down & left of the 78 on the page. It is also depicted just under the 6 on p.28 of B. Gillett's RMNP Estes Park Valley guide. It's fun & worth the romp (wee bit of spice) if you're in the area.

Find this by approaching Gollum's Arch, just East of Twin Owls. You continue East & down a gully to a chunk of rock with big water grooves on its West face & a lonesome set of 3 bolts on its S face. It lies a stone's throw from Triangle Rock, just to the East.

To climb it, boulder up, move left on an angling dike to clip the 1st bolt. Continue angling left to the 2nd bolt, staying low. Now go up on crystals and liebacks to clip a fixed wired. Highstep/mantle up and clip the 3rd bolt. Go up or move left and then up (easier) to a right-angling ramp. Go right and find grooves & cracks to finish about 120 feet up at a tree. You'll get a bit of rope drag on the top of this climb.

Walk off/downclimb right.


3 bolts, 1 fixed wire, 4-5 cams green Alien to #2 Camalot.

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By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Sounds like the one that traverses left off the ground to some bolts and a fixed wire. Don't know what the name of it is, but it felt like 5.9 when we did it last winter.
By Eli Helmuth
From: Ciales, PR
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Rick Hurley and I put this route up on a lead climbing course in July of '02. It was Rick's first lead and we named it Hurlin' - 5.8. I didn't think it was quite up to the Lumpy 5.9 standard. This is a fun little route which complements the nearby East Ridge of the Twin Owls (5.8+).
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2006

I spotted this on a somewhat off-route descent from Gollum's Arch and thought it looked attractive, so we did it. Fun first half. I didn't mind the fixed nut. It looks real solid, and added some interest. The second half was easy and a little grungy. Perhaps it could have ended on the arete to the left at a number grade (guessing) harder. There's a chopped bolt an inch or so below the second bolt. What's that about? Was the original bolt replaced? That seems odd if the route was first put in in 2002.

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