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Unsorted Routes:

Hurley Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley, 1967
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Mike Storeim on Sep 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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  • Description 

    Start just to the right of Empor, to the right of the big boulder. It has solid finger jams with marginal feet, but bomber gear take you to a juggy ledge/corner that seemed a little awkward. From here, continue up on the Northwest Corner route, or head a bit left to join Empor. You can place pro before starting by standing on the boulder to the right of the crack. This might prevent a nasty trip into the cave below.


    Protects well with smaller stoppers or TCUs.

    Comments on Hurley Direct Add Comment
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    By Rodger Raubach
    Sep 9, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Good climb with a one move crux. Solid pro. Great 1st 5.10a for an aspiring 5.10 leader. Can't really get hurt falling if pro set well.
    By slim
    Sep 10, 2010

    Is the fixed, silver TCU still there?
    By Robert Buswold
    From: Northglenn, CO
    Sep 11, 2011

    I followed this one today. Fun crux move, but my foot slipped and I fell from about 10 feet up. With rope stretch I hit the ground, although it was cushioned quite a bit. Fired right back up and enjoyed a great climb the rest of the way to the top. Moving out right around the corner near the top was really nice.
    By Mollykbee
    Oct 20, 2015

    There is an old piton you can clip about 10-15 feet up once you pull over the juggy ledge and step over left. Super fun route with great protection!
    By The Blueprint Part Dank
    From: FEMA Region VIII
    Jul 18, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    For guys with big hands (i.e., can hand jam #3s) like myself, this route looks awfully hard from the ground, seeming to require super thin locks....

    And well, it does, but it's shockingly easy given how small the finger locks are (I had five pinkie and ring-finger locks consecutively through the crux), part of this was due to the plethora of good footholds, but the jams themselves, while small, are shockingly secure, similar to the gear, which is small, but bomber.

    Highly recommend this route, solid 10a, neither soft or sandbagged, and the upper section, which goes at 5.8-ish, is also quite fun.

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