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Hunk Rock - East Face
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Breath of Death T 
Death of a Decade T 
Heat Wave T 
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Hunky Dory T 
Soft Cell T 

Hunky Dory 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Alan Bartlett, February 1997
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 28, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Hunk Rock, East Face

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Description 

Begin about 150 ft up and right from Death Of A Decade (5.10a). A crackless dihedral to slab.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


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By Murf
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

First bolt is "a move" up, with a bad landing ( slotted chimney ). It was obviously placed from the highest stance, but IMO is poorly placed for a 5.10a leader. Granted we are only talking about a foot or two, but it seems silly to put in a new line with and anchor and all, with a potentially bad ground fall.

That said, the climbing is discontinous, with a fun stemming dihedral ( 2 bolts ) leading to a easy section to a short slab section ( 2 bolts ). The first section really works your stemming technique, good route to work it with.
By Nick Barczak
May 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A really fun route! a nice warm up for other climbs.

The first bolt is a move up, but its not that bad. There's a nice feature to step up onto on the left wall to make the first clip.

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