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East Ironing Board
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Crackin' Up T 
East Ironing Board Traverse T 
Green Room S 
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Hand Crack T 
Hey Slick T 
Honemaster Lambada S 
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 
Hyperpolysyllabic T 
Que Rasca T 
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Seam T 
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Slave to the Rhythm S 
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Velvet Elvis S 

Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Piana and Heidi Badarocco, '89.
Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Great rest after the first clip.

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  • Description 

    This is a nice, little, sport climb just right of Velvet Elvis, Hammer of Thor, & Sunbreeze on East Ironing Board. Often its limited season is due to raptor nesting.

    Find a right-angling line of 8 bolts up a cobbled face. There is a thin and balancy crux for 10b at the 3rd bolt. It is fairly sustained and harder than 1st pitch of Velvet Elvis, 10b.

    Rap 70 feet.


    8 bolts (all updated in 2014), 1 bolt anchor [apparently not updated], cord on chockstone. Per Mark Roth: this route and Sunbreeze have only single bolt anchors. You can go to the anchor for Velvet Elvis via Que Rasca and rappel, but the second rappel bolts are showing some rust.

    Photos of Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up.
    Midway up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pebble pinching....
    BETA PHOTO: Pebble pinching....

    Comments on Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 2, 2002

    ....I passed over the top of this route (on Que Rasca) and the single bolt had been supplemented by a stopper in a crack. However, when I did "Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love" (over 5 years ago) there was only this single bolt, and when you weighted it, the bolt moved noticably. I moved over to two bolts at the top of Sunbreeze to rap.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 18, 2003
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    The route is kinda fun, worthy of a star or two. The crux is down low and is balancy after a section of "man-handled" jugs, it feel weird, but fun. 5.10b grade is right on. Better than Hammer of Thor, and less cobble climbing than some of the rest. Also stays in the shade longer in the AM.

    The top anchor has been fixed up a little with some webbing knots in the crack to the left. No need for a second bolt now. Keep an eye on this for wear though.

    Borderline 2-star route....
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Sep 17, 2007

    Fun route, climbed it today and replaced the sun-bleached webbing at the anchor with some new stuff.
    By Aaron Martinuzzi
    Sep 27, 2009

    Added some tat to the mess this afternoon. Currently the anchor (what's good) is a purple sling on a chockstone linked to the bolt with a blue sling. There are a couple biners up there that look like toys, so I put a quicklink on the bolt and rapped off that (backed up with the slung chockstone).
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Sep 23, 2010

    We added some new cord to the chockstone today, but seriously?!? Why doesn't this have a proper anchor??? Such a fun climb, but needs a little work.... Seems like the first bolt might fall out soon too... (the clipping hold is also falling off).
    By Page Weil
    Aug 5, 2013

    CAREFUL. Not only does this climb only have one bolt anchors, THE BOLT DOESN'T HAVE A HANGER RIGHT NOW. There is another anchor about 10 feet lower and out onto the east face of the Ironing Board, but it is aligned for a rap to the east, and a 70m rope does not reach the ground. WARNING WARNING WARNING. NO HANGER. NO WAY TO RAPPEL.

    The threads on the bolt look new, but bring a hanger and nut on your next ascent.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 7, 2013

    I believe the previous comment about the top bolt not having a hanger is incorrect. The bolt stud without a hanger is actually the last bolt on Hammer of Thor.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 7, 2013

    Dale Haas and I replaced the single bolt anchor on top of this climb with two 3/8"x3.5" SS Powers 5-piece bolts with Fixe double ring hangers. All work approved by the Boulder OSMP.
    By Dan Hickstein
    Nov 7, 2014

    Curtis Stevens and I replaced the 8 lead bolts on this climb with new 1/2" stainless steel 5-piece bolts. The first two bolts (in the chossy rock) were replaced with 4.75" bolts and the other lead bolts are 2.75".

    All the work was permitted by Boulder OSMP.

    Bolts and equipment were supplied by the BCC and the ASCA. Please support their bolt replacement efforts:

    Additionally, I think that this is a very nice climb. It has several different cruxes, all with different styles: from a thuggy entrance "swing", to a balance reach to gain the jug near the third bolt, to the "grand finale" headwall.

    For a longer adventure, consider heading north along the ridge after topping out this climb to gain a two-bolt belay at the top of Hammer of Thor. Then, you can lead the spicy 5.7 R/X pitch of Que Rasca before continuing along the ridge and rappelling down The Raven.

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