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Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 
Barf Bucket Traverse T 
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 
Bloodletting T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Climbs of Passion Exit T 
Coffee Grinder T 
Connecticut Yankee T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Fat Man's Demise T 
Finger Grinder T 
Fist Crack, The T 
Forever War, The T 
Glenda's Chimney T 
Howling T 
Hug Jombo T 
Hung Like a Horse T 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 
K.P. T 
Klink T 
Labyrinth T 
Maiden T 
Matron T 
Moor's Crossing T 
Peach Cobbler T 
Penis Dimension T 
Pooh Corner T 
Robert's Rectification T 
Serpentine T 
Sky Line T 
Spatial Relations T 
Time Quake T 
Tombstone Crack T 
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Hung Like a Horse 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Ron Matous and Gary Issacs, 1975]
Page Views: 11,395
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Starting into the crux.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a stunning crack to the right of Penis Dimension.

Start in the left-facing dihedral with a horizontal crack 30 feet up. Small hand jams and good pro to the horizontal ledge which provides a no-hands rest that will quickly tire the feet. From there, perfect hand jams lead to the intimidating roof with a perfect #4 Camalot placement. Pull through this one move offwidth section to the slab above. Delicate slabbing will bring you to the anchors of Penis Dimension which are not visible until the slab is surmounted.

This is the best route I've done at Vedauvoo, with unbeatable protection.


Sparse nuts, sparse small cams to #1 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots, as many #2 Camalots as you can scrounge, 1 #4 Camalot.

Photos of Hung Like a Horse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: artistic shot of Jordan finishing up the day on Hu...
artistic shot of Jordan finishing up the day on Hu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leads 'Hung Like A Horse (5.11a)' At Rey...
Tony Bubb leads 'Hung Like A Horse (5.11a)' At Rey...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber entering the fun crux roof on Hung...
Unknown climber entering the fun crux roof on Hung...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the wide section of Hung Like a Ho...
Pulling through the wide section of Hung Like a Ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Hung Like a Horse
Unknown climber on Hung Like a Horse
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh gets a no hands rest before the business star...
Josh gets a no hands rest before the business star...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb a little further up on 'Hung Like a Hors...
Tony Bubb a little further up on 'Hung Like a Hors...

Comments on Hung Like a Horse Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 6, 2016
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The Crux of this was easier than Penis Dimension, in my opinion. The climbing is simply more sustained, but I didn't find a move on it that was 5.11. YMMV, I have very long arms, small hands and a short thin body, mind you. Unfortunately, I took much more BIG gear than necessary and not enough smaller gear. What I found I was missing was some TCUs.
By Mark Morehouse
Aug 8, 2002

I also thought the crux of Penis Dimension was harder, but Hung Like a Horse is much more sustained. The jams are all sinker until the offwidth section. This is definitely a beautiful line and really fun climbing. Have Fun!!!
By Joe Collins
Aug 26, 2002

The hand jams are actually pretty sinker in the back of the pod, but you have to reach way back there... this coupled with the fact that one foot is jammed in the overhung crack and the other is smeared on the face makes for pretty strenuous climbing. The climbing felt similar to Hesitation Blues, but steeper and harder. I should also add that the anchor is way left, shared by Penis Dimension and Climb and Punishment... this makes it nearly impossible to retrieve your gear after leading it, so the climb has to be seconded.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 25, 2002

I feel the rating to be accurate, Penis Dimension is only harder if you don't do it right. Stay in the pod. You'll get no hints from me as to that crux.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Hey mister Anon at Internet address

I'm not sure how the logic on that last comment flows. I think Penis D. is a 5.10c. I think Hung Like a Horse is similar in grade, or even easier move-by-move (10b), but sustained. I am pretty sure I did Penis D. just fine. Maybe I just did H.L.A.H. super good? It just seemed easier than graded. So why does that mean that somehow we're all doing a climb we agree with the grade of incorrectly? By your own logic, maybe you just are not doing H.L.A.H. right?
By Fletch F. Fletcher
Apr 4, 2004

Hey... it doesn't share the anchors with "P.P. Dimensions" it has its own bolts to the right of the crack around 8' above the roof... look carefully before you start the route.

C. C.
Aug 3, 2004

You are strong indeed if you think 11- is inflated for this climb. While a fairly different climb and in a different area, in my opinion it is significantly more difficult than the 2nd pitch of Country Club Crack, as well as the 2nd pitch of Athlete's feet.

The climb is fabulous and demanding.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 20, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is 5.11 in my book.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 3, 2005

IMO, this is the highest quality of the 3 cracks in this alcove (the others of course being C & P and PD). At the crux I too stayed in the good hands way back in there...
By Wade Griffith
Feb 16, 2006

Hey Fletcher,
Those bolts out right above the roof appeared a few years ago. I think someone was trying to figure out a face route out there or something, got me what they were thinkin'. I don't remember there being any slings or chain to rap off those bolts, maybe there is now. The traditional anchor would be to climb on up and around the left to Climb and Punishment, easy climbing with just a little rope drag.
By Steve Matous
May 25, 2006

FA done in 1975 by Ron Matous and Gary Issacs.
By honeyjacket
May 17, 2015

New anchors on top of this bad boy thanks to Cam the Man.
By Moritz B.
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The new guidebook recommends to use the anchors of Climb and Punishment. DON'T do that. There is an individual set of anchors on the top of HLAH.

This climb protects VERY well with with the following rack: 2x#0.75, 2x#1, 2-4x#2s, 1-2x#3s, 1x#4 for the bulge. There is a little chimney section at the end, that can be protected with a #5.

Here is a little advice on crux-beta (turning the bulge) that I figured out for myself:

Stay leftside in. Reach deep with your left hand for the good jams. Keep the left hand thumps up (!). Get feet on the right side of the slab, and slap the arete with your right hand. Work your left foot up. Eventually you'll get your right foot on a really good foothold.

Regarding difficulty, HLAH felt as hard to me as Spectraman. Find out for yourself.
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I am still not hung like a horse. I will check back in soon. "Hung Like a Filly" would be a pretty sweet route name.
By climberish
Nov 6, 2016

Amazing route. A bit of burl mixed with a bit of fancy footwork got me through the crux.

If you are setting up a TR on this route, I highly suggest clipping the climber's end of the rope into a 4ft runner or similar long sling to the random coldshut anchor about 5 feet to the right on the arete to keep your rope from ripping any directionals you might leave in the roof.

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