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Humbug Spires

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mutt and Jeff, The T 
Southeast Chimneys T 
Southwest Face T 
Tiny Tim T 
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From MP's sister site:

Humbug Spires Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 45.7431, -112.6708 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,112
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Redinius on Oct 26, 2010  with updates from Matt Wenger
Forecast:
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Hailey climbing some boulders at the base.

Road closed December 2 to May 15 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Humbug Spires contain excellent climbing on white granite of the Boulder Batholith. The main attraction here is the largest spire in the area, The Wedge. It is around 500 feet tall and requires 5.8 climbing to reach the summit. Consult Randall Green's Rock Climbing Montana or Butte's Climbing Guide by Dwight Bishop for further information.

Getting There 

The Humbug Spires are located in Silver Bow County in southwestern Montana, approximately 24 miles south of Butte and 36 miles north of Dillon. They are on the edge of the Big Hole River Valley between the Highland Mountains and the Pioneer Mountains. This area is accessible by graded road from Interstate Highway 15.

Turn off I-15 at Moose Creek Exit #99 and follow the graded Moose Creek Road for about 3 miles to the parking lot. Driving time from Butte or Dillon is about 45 minutes.

From the Moose Creek trailhead, the hike is around 4 miles. It is a generally leisurely hike, with very little elevation gain.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 7.6 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Humbug Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Humbug Spires:
The Mutt and Jeff   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Southwest Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   
Southeast Chimneys   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Humbug Spires

Featured Route For Humbug Spires
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta Photo for "The Mutt and Jeff"

The Mutt and Jeff 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Montana : Humbug Spires
The must do route on this wall, it ascends up the longest face on the Wedge and is a must do if you make the pilgrimage to this awesome area. It is a 5 pitch climb that has holds in all the right places with lots of friction required to make your way up the rock.Pitch 1 - 5.7Climb the flake aiming towards the two side by side bolts. Marvel at how unlikely it is that the 1/4 pinhead bolt will actually hold as you traverse into the crack to the right of the small roof. Climb up and follo...[more]   Browse More Classics in Montana

Photos of Humbug Spires Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Mutt and Jeff
The Mutt and Jeff
Rock Climbing Photo: On the walk in
On the walk in
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the traverse from the top to the rap an...
BETA PHOTO: Here's the traverse from the top to the rap an...
Rock Climbing Photo: As you're walking in you're like "is this it?...
As you're walking in you're like "is this it?...
Rock Climbing Photo: View around back and surrounding crags
View around back and surrounding crags
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial View Do want to go back Would live here
Aerial View Do want to go back Would live here
Rock Climbing Photo: The Wedge from the approach - although I always th...
The Wedge from the approach - although I always th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fairly Soft Rock but pretty solid.  Place a piece ...
BETA PHOTO: Fairly Soft Rock but pretty solid. Place a piece ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex climbing the wedge's southwest route if I rem...
Alex climbing the wedge's southwest route if I rem...
Rock Climbing Photo: the wedge looking ominous
the wedge looking ominous
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at The Wedge
looking up at The Wedge

Comments on Humbug Spires Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 22, 2011
The original location of many of the dirty sox clubs exploits. There are some great reads on it if you google dirty sox club.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 10, 2013
Video I made of the Mutt and Jeff
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
May 7, 2017
It should be noted that the approach hike is an easy 4 miles, with very, very little elevation gain.

Also note, location marker is for trailhead. Actual coordinates for The Wedge are:

45.777565, -112.636676

Nice video Ty!

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