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Hugo's Horror Revisited 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: mike lee
Page Views: 2,635
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Jul 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Hugo's Horror Revisited and Time-Space Continuum


Hugo's is a new take on an older nebulous line that was originally done by Hugo Stadmuller. Locate the prominent toe of rock that falls just shy of the rr tracks and hike up hill, at the toe of the cliff you will see the wet streak that is the winter route cinema gully, walk climbers right about 25 feet uphill until you see a bolt on a slab.
[Alternately, if it's dry, start at the very toe of the cliff and work up the gully a bit before stepping right onto the slab below the first bolt [photo];....or just clip the first bolt with a long runner and continue up the gully for the easiest start.]

1. climb a very easy slab to a tree ledge passing a couple bolts low on the route. 180 ft 5.3-5.4 [Admin. NOTE: The easier climbing is in the slightly broken gully to the left of the slab with bolts. Directly up past the bolts on the arete of the clean slab is more difficult; about 5.6-5.7 give-or-take. R. Hall]

2. behind the tree ledge there is a small but short head wall, climb this on gear and meander your way up the slab above to a 2-bolt anchor. 160 ft 5.5

3. [photos] follow a slab to some steeper overlaps and shallow corners picking the path of cleanest rock and following bolts and the occasional gear placement. Crux is about 1/2 up this pitch. 160 ft 5.6 [beta- don't waste time looking for gear pro at the crux, there isn't any.]

4. climb steeper rock again following bolts to a couple tricky but well protected moves to the top of the lower tier. 160 ft 5.5-5.6

DESCENT- Rap the route with two 60M ropes. It is possible to JUST make it with a 60M and a 50M "pull down", but you'll have to drop straight down/rappeller's right-ish on the last rap towards the base of Time Traveler.

One way to the tree ledge and the upper slabs is to traverse right, clip one of the bolts of the top anchor for "Time Traveler Revisited", continue right and then up some brushed ( 2015) footholds to the bushes and trees on the right. Then a half-pitch of "Class 3.9" leaves and bushes gets one to the path along the upper tier. WATCH for lose rocks just laying on the leaves!


This route is a fine example of the term "mixed" there are bolts just when you need them and gear in any spot that it could be placed naturally.
There are two bolt anchors at all the pitches except for the first pitch (tree ledge with slings).

Photos of Hugo's Horror Revisited Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the bolt just above the hardest "unavoidab...
BETA PHOTO: At the bolt just above the hardest "unavoidab...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the P3 belay on Hugo's
BETA PHOTO: At the P3 belay on Hugo's
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up P1 of "Hogo's" - the bolts o...
BETA PHOTO: Starting up P1 of "Hogo's" - the bolts o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunny morning up willard, at the 3rd belay ledge.
Sunny morning up willard, at the 3rd belay ledge.

Comments on Hugo's Horror Revisited Add Comment
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By jcomeau2 Comeau
Jul 29, 2011

can this routre be done with a 50 meter rope??
By Chris Bartram
From: Boone , NC
Apr 24, 2012

what gear do you need for this climb Standard rack? Decent options?
By Jeremy A
From: NH
May 16, 2012

Hey there Chris, I used a standard rack. Mostly bolted pitches(Not sport by any means)/bolt anchors. I did not carry any large gear. Up to a #2 BD. Most parties rap w/ 2 ropes (60m). Also to not spit to much beta.."Meander" is the key word for this route. Enjoy.
By Bob A
Nov 13, 2012

I did this route yesterday 11-12-12.
Fun little adventure.

To echo what Jeremy said:
I would bring a small rack to #1 bd (we only used up to a .75).You will need two ropes to get off(4 double rope raps).
I am not sure but would almost bet that 50 meter ropes will NOT get you to the belays (maybe the first?).All pitches seem to be around 180 ft or so.

I did this route again yesterday 6-21-14. You will need 60 meter ropes for all pitches.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I did this route a couple of times, the 2nd time we took a 50m 8mm "pull down" and this did work....but only with a foot or two to spare on one or two of the raps, so I think leading it with a 50m is out of the question. I think the rating was originally "5.5 - 5.6" and I would say "5.6 - 5.7" is more like it, especially because the crux (at least what I thought was the crux, on the 3rd pitch) is rather run-out, with the bolt 15-20 feet below you. Perhaps another bolt should be added here? Otherwise, a very nice route, fun climb. Too bad the rock from the top dbl bolt anchors* to the Big Tree Ledge is pretty mossy.

[ * Admin. NOTE: In 2015 some cleaning was done from here to the "Time-Space Continuum" belay (about 25 ft right), and then on up to the start of the Big Tree Ledge, so getting there isn't too bad, especially if dry.]
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 13, 2014

i like burlaps protection description "mixed" kinda says it all.
By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
May 23, 2015

Am I the only one who thinks the moves to the first bolt on the first pitch are very scary and committing until you finally reach it? By far the crux (to me) of the whole route. Or am I missing something?
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Ron may be correct about the crux in the first 20-30 ft if you climb the slab directly over the bolts. I've added a NOTE to P1.
By Jonathan Sykes
Apr 10, 2016

Hugo's Horror Revisited is 800 feet.And how can Ursa Major be 400 feet if it goes to the top of the lower wall when all other routes here are 700 feet? A bit misleading and confusing for first timers to Mt.Willard.Just thought I would point this out for safety's sake.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 20, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Perhaps "GunksWest" referred to 400 ft of vertical, while others refer to feet climbed"???

As you point out, the routes on this main slab are all about the same length...i.e. about 4 or 5 pitches in length.

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