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YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Don Welsh
Page Views: 2,622
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 11, 2002

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This is an incredible route that in its former incarnation as a mere 25-meter pitch was known as "The Schwa." Not content with where the route ended, its first ascentionist Don Welsh yanked out the old anchors and re-routed the route onto a porcelain-hard grey streak up the headwall to the left, making for one of Rifle's best, and longest, pitches.

Huge is one route left of Roadside Prophet, the big line out the swell you first encounter at the Bauhaus Wall. Huge climbs past a fixed purple draw behind a tree into very steep terrain right of a grey bowl/depression, then moves left of an obvious Vee onto a long, streaked headwall.

It is also one route right of Tomfoolery.

Scrambled up to the ledge, clipping a bolt along the way if need be (use a verrry lonnnng sling). A skin-ripping pistol grip at the third bolt sets you up for the crux lunge, which is capped off by three bolts worth of sprinting for good, but distant, holds. A jug shake is followed by some tricky vertical climbing on popcorn holds and pockets, then a sneaky step left sets you up at the base of the grey streak, some of the best climbing in Rifle Mountain Park.

Take lots of draws and maybe a knee-pad for your left leg.


14-16 quickdraws and a 70-meter rope.

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2005

Has this route been downrated recently? I had heard it was solid 13d.
By Brian Kimball
Apr 15, 2012

I would agree and say it is solid 13d.1-2ish ;o)~ 13c is a total sandbagger move, and everybody knows it.
By Elliott Bates
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

A brilliant route - best I have climbed in Rifle! Certainly a significant step up from Sprayathon and The Path, both mentally (due to the sheer length) and physically with harder boulder problems and longer sustained sections. Use the rests wisely, and don't punt off the amazing headwall!

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