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Huecool T 
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West Face/Downclimb aka West Chimney T 

Huecool 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Tony B., solo, 3/12/15
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces S/SW
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The short boulder problem start to Huecool, with t...

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  • Description 

    Huecool is a short boulder problem (V0 = 5.10+?) on small huecos to a longer pitch (5.6-5.7?) through some body-sized huecos.

    Start on a 2-finger pocket and poor feet on an overhang at the base, moving up and right to your choice of so-so holds, then up onto a small ledge. This V0 crux is protected by a spotter. From there, move up and left, then back right on big jugs to the huge hueco. Move out right through the hueco and over the overhang above, then up and over in an offwidth to get established on another ledge. Reach the East Face slab via a low angle chimney or a left-facing corner further West of there. From the East Face, the summit is only a few meters away.

    Location 

    From the West Face/chimney, come back to the south about 20' and look upward to a huge body-sized hueco/impression. Look back down to the base below that to find a few 2-finger pockets. Start there on the slight overhang.

    Protection 

    I soloed the route and did not place protection. Some is available, certainly, but it's not always going to be nearby or readily available. The protection down low is a spotter for maybe 4-5' at the bottom for the crux boulder problem.

    To descend, you downclimb the East Face (5.4, **).


    Photos of Huecool Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony B. at mid-route just above the big huecos (bu...
    Tony B. at mid-route just above the big huecos (bu...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The body-sized huecos at mid-route on Hueco that m...
    BETA PHOTO: The body-sized huecos at mid-route on Hueco that m...

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