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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Hudson, 1965
Page Views: 2,365
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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at the "secret" move... shhhhhhh

Description 

Under-cling up left until you can reach up right over the roof.

There are two cruxes. The first one is the embarrassment of flailing and swinging into innocent passers-by. The second is knowing how to stop the endless line of not-so-innocent passers-by who ask for a try.

Life is short, so throw as many heel hooks as you can.

Location 

This is the giant overhang just past the Uberfall, and right before the Suzie A block. It starts right behind the big rescue equipment box.

Protection 

This route is most commonly top-roped. As the name suggests, it can be bouldered. Taller stuff has been, but I wouldn't want to fall off near the top.

For leading, there is a fixed pin right before the lip of the roof, and other gear is available (can be strenuous to place).

It is important to consider the effects of either a fall or the swing from TR into passing foot traffic.


Comments on Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang Add Comment
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By kendallt
Jun 30, 2014

It's a bit rusty and questionable looking, but pin was still there on 6/29/2014.
By Daniel Affsprung
From: New Paltz, NY
Aug 27, 2014

I didn't see the pin there today 8/27/2014. Fun climbing though
By Andy Casler
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 26, 2014

Pin was still there, though hard to spot, on 10-25-14

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