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The Grendel
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Academic Freedom S 
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Beyond the Pale T 
Daneland S 
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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rich Kelly, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Jun 29, 2016

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This steep trad climb breaches the roof between Academic Freedom and Exit Stage Right with a puzzling crux. Varied and interesting, with a good finger crack and corner to start, well-protected but strenuous moves turning the roof to the left, and a fun hand crack above the roof. After the hand crack, place directionals and move left to finish on Academic Freedom, clipping one bolt before the anchor.

This gets a provisional three stars, pending some traffic, because parts of it are quite lichenous. As is, it's still really fun.

The pitch was led with a couple of falls, restarting each time from the no-hands rest stance under the roof, and then followed clean. This will be redpointed...if we get around to it.


Start at obvious cracks behind the big tree beween Academic Freedom and Exit Stage Right. The orange, right-facing corner leading to a roof is the main landmark.


Small to medium wires and one set of cams to #3, including several small cams. One tiny wire is fixed in the roof. Back it up.

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