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Howler Monkey 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 2,178
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Josh Horniak taking a stroll up Howler Monkey .10d

Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the start of Local Yokel (5.8), and instead of heading up onto the chosspile, head up and right into a large (10 -12 feet) feature on nearly vertical rock. Traverse the feature using anything you can find to hold onto, and then top out to the top anchors.

The feature is awesome, and requires quite a bit of fancy footwork.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Confusion Tactics (5.12a).


Photos of Howler Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Howler Monkey just to the right of Local Yokel.
Howler Monkey just to the right of Local Yokel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Howler Monkey .10d. Wreckage Wall, Auburn Quarry, ...
Howler Monkey .10d. Wreckage Wall, Auburn Quarry, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Horniak taking a stroll up Howler Monkey .10d
Josh Horniak taking a stroll up Howler Monkey .10d

Comments on Howler Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Jacoshenk
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 27, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
Climbed this route this weekend and noticed that the three bolts surrounding the roof feature were all spinning. What size bolt is typically used for the hangers at the Quarry or sport climbing areas in general? I want to make sure I pack a wrench the next time I go out.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I've always gone straight up the corner past the right side of the roof past a one or two more bolts to the same anchor as the Local Yokel.
By Rough
Dec 17, 2012

Yep, after the roof you can go to either anchor: Confusion or Local. I think the way rope runs is a little better from Confusion's anchor, but certainly they both work!
By Nukem
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

i also climbed this weekend, whipped on that bolt in question a few times and held just fine, but i agree it could use a little tightening.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Mar 8, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Still spinners under the roof. Could probably benefit from some lock nuts. Stout crux but fun. Wish it had mussy's instead of rap rings cause cleaning it is kinda a bitch if you go to the confusion anchor.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 14, 2015

Not one I'd repeat often, but the onsight excitement was well worth the price of admission. Obligatory, post crux howls were emitted.
By Chasing Choss
From: California
Jun 14, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

first bolt below roof is still spinning
By Rough
Mar 2, 2017

I didn't use a standard. Most are 3/8" or 1/2" rawls. Others are the 10 or 12 mm Fixe. I would suggest a crescent wrench and you are covered for all scenarios.

A couple of things to consider, if the rock is wet or event wet in surrounding areas, check under the roof, it might be worth tightening the nut down snug but not tight / torqued as the presence of wet rock / water can increase the chance of over torquing. In general go to snug, then just a smidgen turn past. You do not need to crank down and keep torquing. The sleeves an/or wedges just need to be tight and in contact with the rock to function appropriately. I have seen people over torque bolts which can cause them to spin and/or increase chance of the head (on Rawls / Power type bolts) to shear.

Ultimately, if you are are not comfortable and confident in your ability to do it right, just tighten it to snug and leave it at that.

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