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Howdy Doody Time 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Mark Rolofson, 9/21/2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,377
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Nov 13, 2010

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Howdy Doody Time!!!!!

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bring your full bag of tricks for this one; success will demand a bit of route finding, power, and finesse. The movement and exposed positions are memorable to say the least.

Climb easy rock onto a ledge above the belay. From the ledge, the route climbs up and left on beautiful gold rock, traverses right into a corner, and continues up onto the arete and face above.

Say kids, what time is it?

It's Howdy Doody Time!

It's Howdy Doody Time.
It's Howdy Doody Time.
Bob Smith and Howdy Do
Say Howdy Do to you.
Let's give a rousing cheer,
Cause Howdy Doody's here,
It's time to start the show,
So kids let's go!

Location 

Near the center of the South face, left of Open Space Cowboy, belay near a convenient boulder seat.

Protection 

11 bolts to ring anchors.


Comments on Howdy Doody Time Add Comment
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By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really good variety. Clipping from a heel hook? Fabulous!
By Ben Walburn
Oct 15, 2012

Looks can be deceiving. One of the funnest pitches I've climbed in a while.
By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Oct 20, 2012

Really nice, not to be missed.
By Mike Minson
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2015

Great route. Definitely over bolted.
By michalm
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun, if awkward, movement on this route and interesting route-finding. This route would be just as safe with 3 fewer bolts for a more enjoyable climbing experience.
By michalm
Jun 17, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I came back a year later with a small rack. 6 bolts were unnecessary, and most of these were next to perfectly good gear placements. I do not agree with the idea of designating an area a "sport crag" for the convenience of "sport climbers". While Mark Rolofson has established some of my favorite sport climbs, he has also fully bolted many routes that would make for better, challenging trad routes protected by bolts where gear is not available. Learning to adapt to the rock and use the necessary tools to ensure our own safety is an inherent part of climbing. Do you bolt cracks?

By Mark Rolofson
Apr 29, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

In response to Michalm's comment & grade of 5.10c. Wow, I've heard this climb called 5.11a, but 5.10c is really blowing smoke out of your ass. Regarding your comment about the number of bolts & this being a better route if were a trad (mixed gear & bolts) route, I strongly disagree. I think a large number of climbers would disagree with you, too.

First, most of the bolts that could be skipped are not until the middle of the route. So many climbers would start up the climb thinking it was a sport climb only to find it was rather run-out & they needed gear they didn't bring.

More importantly, mixed routes generally suck. Alex Honnold seems to agree, if you watch the video him & Hazel Findlay climbing Down Under. Once half of more of a route has bolts, who wants to bring a rack to have just the right pieces for a few places. I would rather just enjoy the climbing & unrestrained movement, than have to hang around & dick around with gear to make the climb safe. It is one thing if a climb starts with a nice crack for its first half or even finishes with a nice, long, continuous crack. Clearly, no one would leave the bolt line of Open Space Cowboy to do Missing Link without a rack either.

If you like mixing it up, then establish your own first ascents that way. You have every right to make that choice. If you like skipping some or all of the bolts on existing climbs, great. Just don't expect others to agree with you or adhere to the old school idea that a climb with less bolts is better or more ethical. That's called having a traditude. I would rather not have to bring gear for this climb. I have climbed it numerous times, usually as a warm-up.

Climbs like Dude's Jam Crack or Crack House are protected by all gear. It makes sense not to bolt continuous cracks with good protection. Interestingly, I established Crack House (.12b) at Little Dude's in March 2012. It doesn't appear to have seen a repeat. Go send that one & downrate it to 5.11c.

Interesting that you posted this video of how to place a Powers 5 piece bolt. It appears this bolt is being placed just below a perfectly good, horizontal crack. Perhaps this person isn't big on mixed routes either.
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 30, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I should add that this route was equipped & cleaned by Kirk Miller. I only placed the 5th bolt. This was added after Kirk led it without. I felt the 5th bolt was wanted to protect some hard moves climbing right & then up a short arete. Kirk agreed & I added the 5th bolt. Kirk was also the first to redpoint the climb the day of our first ascent. First ascent was on September 21, 2003.

I think Kirk did an excellent job equipping the route, & it is bolted perfectly. Over the past 13.5 years, I have heard almost entirely positive feedback about this route & other climbs at this crag. If placing gear is what you're interested in, then there is no shortage of trad climbing on the Front Range. We established the climbs at Dude's Throne & Little Dude's to create great granite sport crags. There are a few worthy trad & mixed lines as well.
By Rhonda
From: Golden, CO
May 5, 2017

Well put, Mark! Great route and thanks for all the hard work put in at Dude's.

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