How to jam thin hand cracks
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I'm no crack climbing expert. But I can hand jam. I can fist jam. They feel solid when the crack is a nice size. My footwork in the crack is halfway decent. But I've been struggling hard with the thin hands size, where you can't quite get your hand in but it's way too wide for ring locks. I've tried thumbs up, thumbs down, tape, no tape, and it always seems desperate and strenuous, like I'm working too hard and always slipping out. Does anybody have any tips? I see people cruise this stuff so I know it's possible. I've read articles and asked around but have yet to figure out the subtleties. |
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This book fixedpin.com/products/the-c… |
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As much as I like Kent's book, I think he (purposefully) left out more general climbing techniques that are applicable to crack climbing (especially for a strong face climber). |
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ha every "hand crack" ive ever tried is thin hands(I'm 6'4 #225)I'm starting to think I need to look for fist cracks to learn my hand jams :D |
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For me, thumbs down is best until the crack is thin enough for ring locks. Jam as much of your thumb and pointer and middle fingers in as you can. Flex similar to as you would for a #2 hand crack. Any smaller and ring locks are key. For me that is. |
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If it's really too thin for your hands then you need to move to a thumb stack or ring lock. There is a range there too. Just wrap your fingers closer to the base of your thumb and that will expand the stack/lock range. |