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How Loose Is Your Goose 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: George Zelenz, January 1994
Page Views: 903
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: "How Loose Is Your Goose". Photo by Blit...


This route starts off the boulder/ledge to the right of "My Goose Is Loose".
The Randy Vogel JTW guide shows this route, in the photo, following the dangerously loose, rubble filled, left facing corner. That's not the route Just left of this trashy corner is a shallow corner/groove with faceholds. Follow this to the top.


Some stoppers and small cams (1" max) can protect this easy climb.

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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Oct 11, 2010

May be blocked by a huge spiderweb half way up.
By Mary Moser
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I started down and right of the actual climb and went up a separate hand to finger crack and then transitioned left into the route. It was kind of fun and added another 8 feet to the climb. There are a lot of rocks just sitting there in limbo waiting to come down on the belayer, so beware. Despite the choss it was actually fun. BTW, there was no spider web there yesterday.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 29, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Avoid the left facing super blocky, rubble filled corner and take the more obvious right facing hand size crack. Gear anchor with several options but larger 2-3" pieces and a long runner is golden.
By mike west
Feb 6, 2014

Short, but still has fun moves. Made the anchor in the crack above before noticing a couple of bolts above Kodiak.

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