How Ed Lost His Mind
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The descriptions to this route conflict when comparing Taos Rock (Foley) to Rock Climbing New Mexico (Jackson). I am unsure the exact direction the route was intended to go so am only describing the way I went. It would be great if someone could comment on the intended direction of the route setter.
Start at the base of a nice crack/right facing dihedral. Follow this crack to its end, good pro placements throughout. At the end of this crack I placed two 0.4 Camalots, as I thought the face above was quite run-out. Gather your nerve, and make some friction moves. The next 4 feet or so after your last protection are the worst then it lightens up until you can reach up and clip a bolt (this is also the third bolt of Mad Bolter). After clipping the bolt continue straight up through the crux and some more friction climbing (undercling), and clip the next bolt. After clipping the second bolt you will come on another crack, and above are a few easy face/friction moves to a two bolt anchor.
An error in Foley's book notes three bolts on this climb, showing one in his photo-topo that should be located somewhere near the end of the crack. This one did not exist.
Southwest of Alien
, look for three lines of bolts. To the right is a thin seam that is the start of Mad Bolter
, and to the left is a slab climb, Ground Up
A small rack of single cams from 0.3 to 0.75, with double 0.4s is sufficient. Two draws for the bolts. Two bolt anchor.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Feb 22, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I went the way you describe here, following the 'Taos Rock' description. Seemed like it worked.
A longtime LA/TP climber suggested that How Ed Lost His Mind crosses the bolt line Mad Bolter from left to right and continues up on big features right of the bolt line, rather than joining it. This is the way shown in 'RC:NM'. Pro is less available going this way (you skip the last bolt); but the climbing is easier, about 5.8 where it's runout.
By Jesse Morehouse
Jun 7, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The descriptions sure are confusing. To me the line described above is the one that makes the most sense looking at the rock which sounds vague but makes sense when you stand there.