Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
How do you like this tether/ rappel extension ?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Another three-point anchor with clove hitches.
Rock Climbing Photo: The two belay-biner loops are created by a frost k...
The two belay-biner loops are created by a frost knot sorta thing in the middle of the webbing. Basically, you fold the webbing over in one direction, then back, and tie an overhand loop in the three layers between the two folds.


It is redundant for rappel mode, when both biners are clipped to the harness. It can be used as a tether. The tether can be extended by untying the frost knot.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
98 points
Aug 12, 2016
It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established. NateC
From Utah
Joined Feb 12, 2013
2 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: OTL
A problem in search of a problem. Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
378 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Another three-point anchor with clove hitches.
NateC wrote:
It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.


This is quite simple, for me at least.

I like to climb heavy, so others can keep up ;)

Those middle loops should maybe be shorter so I can get better extension without untying.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
98 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Rock
I would assume it would never balance a load on the anchor. It will always be pulling on one more than the other since there is basically 2 knots at the anchor point (even if there isn't the strands coming off it will pull more to one side or the other creating imbalance vs always pulling on the knot downward and balancing it out). ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic belay shot
Why not use a double runner that you're already carrying up the route as an alpine runner?

Introducing complexity leads to accidents. Find the simplest solution, do it the same way every time...
Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
288 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Another three-point anchor with clove hitches.
On second thought, I don't need a redundant connection to the belay biner since I'm using a shunt to back the rappel, and the shunt is connected to the belay loop. Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
98 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Spur
Since you asked, i dont like it. sean.haynes
Joined Aug 1, 2015
99 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic belay shot
What. Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
288 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Another three-point anchor with clove hitches.
sean.haynes wrote:
Since you asked, i dont like it.


I don't like it anymore, myself. If I didn't have the shunt, I'd still like it.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
98 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Rock
Your still safer / better off with a single strand of webbing with a single water knot tying them together. Than all you have to do is tie an overhand for the master point and it is redundant, balanced, and safe.

Less knots in the system the better since knots are where they will always fail first.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
201 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Another three-point anchor with clove hitches.
What was I thinking?!

I should have been using the BoB instead of the frost knot thingy to create the middle (belay biner) loops. Muuuuuch better!
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
98 points
Aug 12, 2016
I never understood the appeal of an extended rappel setup. I suppose it works nicely if you're guiding someone and you want to set them up before you go down, but yeah, not a fan of the concept and this looks like an overly complicated version of an already overly complicated solution to a non problem. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
I disagree, great idea. Here is an alarm clock you might like.

Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Another three-point anchor with clove hitches.
John Wilder wrote:
I never understood the appeal of an extended rappel setup. I suppose it works nicely if you're guiding someone and you want to set them up before you go down, but yeah, not a fan of the concept and this looks like an overly complicated version of an already overly complicated solution to a non problem.


It's for paranoid guys like me who want to eliminate the possibility of rappel failure due to flipping upside down, which can happen with the leg-loop prusik and no rappel extension.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
98 points
Aug 13, 2016
NateC wrote:
It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.


True. But if he adds a 3rd leg to it and throws in a few clove hitches, he can flip it upside down and make a superduper, equalizing, Moss-o-lette anchor out of it. It's GOT to be better than anything else out there. I mean, just LOOK AT IT.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,628 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Miniholland
In rappelling, it seems that failure in the area you're trying to fix, is not very common. Check, double check, triple check. Don't get caught being complacent. Knot the ends of the rope. JoeGaribay
From Ventura, Ca
Joined Apr 26, 2014
66 points
Aug 13, 2016
Eric Moss wrote:
It's for paranoid guys like me who want to eliminate the possibility of rappel failure due to flipping upside down, which can happen with the leg-loop prusik and no rappel extension.


What? No, that's not a thing.

I cannot imagine a scenario where you would or could invert on rappel with a leg loop autoblock and the device on your belay loop.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Top half of Melifluous
What the fuck Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
999 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: El Classico V0
I don't like it either.

Try a double length sewn nylon sling. Your attachment to the belay device doesn't have to be redundant. Drop the shut and back it up with a sterling hollow block. If you have an extension an auto block can and should be off your belay loop, rather than the leg loop.
Brandon.Phillips
From Alabama
Joined May 13, 2011
71 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: El Classico V0
on second thought:
Why?
Brandon.Phillips
From Alabama
Joined May 13, 2011
71 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
for the record, there has been one fatality canyoning where the autoblock on the leg loop contributed. however, is was a small component that contextually is less important than the judgement of the individual. I i dont like this. its overly complicated and requires too much time. get a 240cm sling fold it in half, pass it through your tie-ins and knot it . you now have 4 strands of webbing making two fully redundant loops off your harness. Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
127 points
Aug 13, 2016
AHHHHHH! Stop, please! EB
From Winona
Joined Jan 1, 2002
820 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:
for the record, there has been one fatality canyoning where the autoblock on the leg loop contributed. however, is was a small component that contextually is less important than the judgement of the individual. I i dont like this. its overly complicated and requires too much time. get a 240cm sling fold it in half, pass it through your tie-ins and knot it . you now have 4 strands of webbing making two fully redundant loops off your harness.



This?

canyoncollective.com/threads/n...
JoeLars41
Joined Mar 9, 2015
55 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: .
K.I.S.S.

Keep It Simple Stupid.

Questions like these are what's ruining climbing.
ClimbLikeAGirl
From Keene Valley
Joined Jun 14, 2015
15 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hawksbill
Rock Climbing Photo: mount stupid
mount stupid
Brian Abram
From Celo, NC
Joined Oct 17, 2007
418 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>