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How do you like this tether/ rappel extension ?
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Aug 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: The two belay-biner loops are created by a frost k...
The two belay-biner loops are created by a frost knot sorta thing in the middle of the webbing. Basically, you fold the webbing over in one direction, then back, and tie an overhand loop in the three layers between the two folds.


It is redundant for rappel mode, when both biners are clipped to the harness. It can be used as a tether. The tether can be extended by untying the frost knot.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
0 points
Aug 12, 2016
It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established. NateC
From Utah
Joined Feb 12, 2013
0 points
Aug 12, 2016
A problem in search of a problem. Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
180 points
Aug 12, 2016
NateC wrote:
It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.


This is quite simple, for me at least.

I like to climb heavy, so others can keep up ;)

Those middle loops should maybe be shorter so I can get better extension without untying.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
0 points
Aug 12, 2016
I would assume it would never balance a load on the anchor. It will always be pulling on one more than the other since there is basically 2 knots at the anchor point (even if there isn't the strands coming off it will pull more to one side or the other creating imbalance vs always pulling on the knot downward and balancing it out). ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
165 points
Aug 12, 2016
Why not use a double runner that you're already carrying up the route as an alpine runner?

Introducing complexity leads to accidents. Find the simplest solution, do it the same way every time...
Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
85 points
Aug 12, 2016
On second thought, I don't need a redundant connection to the belay biner since I'm using a shunt to back the rappel, and the shunt is connected to the belay loop. Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
0 points
Aug 12, 2016
Since you asked, i dont like it. Sean Haynes
Joined Aug 1, 2015
71 points
Aug 12, 2016
What. Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
85 points
Aug 12, 2016
sean.haynes wrote:
Since you asked, i dont like it.


I don't like it anymore, myself. If I didn't have the shunt, I'd still like it.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
0 points
Aug 12, 2016
Your still safer / better off with a single strand of webbing with a single water knot tying them together. Than all you have to do is tie an overhand for the master point and it is redundant, balanced, and safe.

Less knots in the system the better since knots are where they will always fail first.
ViperScale
Joined Dec 22, 2013
165 points
Aug 12, 2016
What was I thinking?!

I should have been using the BoB instead of the frost knot thingy to create the middle (belay biner) loops. Muuuuuch better!
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
0 points
Aug 12, 2016
I never understood the appeal of an extended rappel setup. I suppose it works nicely if you're guiding someone and you want to set them up before you go down, but yeah, not a fan of the concept and this looks like an overly complicated version of an already overly complicated solution to a non problem. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points
Aug 12, 2016
I disagree, great idea. Here is an alarm clock you might like.

Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
163 points
Aug 13, 2016
John Wilder wrote:
I never understood the appeal of an extended rappel setup. I suppose it works nicely if you're guiding someone and you want to set them up before you go down, but yeah, not a fan of the concept and this looks like an overly complicated version of an already overly complicated solution to a non problem.


It's for paranoid guys like me who want to eliminate the possibility of rappel failure due to flipping upside down, which can happen with the leg-loop prusik and no rappel extension.
Eric Moss
Joined Apr 15, 2016
0 points
Aug 13, 2016
NateC wrote:
It seems like an overly complicated solution to a scenario that has many simpler, lighter alternatives already established.


True. But if he adds a 3rd leg to it and throws in a few clove hitches, he can flip it upside down and make a superduper, equalizing, Moss-o-lette anchor out of it. It's GOT to be better than anything else out there. I mean, just LOOK AT IT.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,850 points
Aug 13, 2016
In rappelling, it seems that failure in the area you're trying to fix, is not very common. Check, double check, triple check. Don't get caught being complacent. Knot the ends of the rope. Joe Garibay
From Ventura, Ca
Joined Apr 26, 2014
30 points
Aug 13, 2016
Eric Moss wrote:
It's for paranoid guys like me who want to eliminate the possibility of rappel failure due to flipping upside down, which can happen with the leg-loop prusik and no rappel extension.


What? No, that's not a thing.

I cannot imagine a scenario where you would or could invert on rappel with a leg loop autoblock and the device on your belay loop.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points
Aug 13, 2016
What the fuck Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
740 points
Aug 13, 2016
I don't like it either.

Try a double length sewn nylon sling. Your attachment to the belay device doesn't have to be redundant. Drop the shut and back it up with a sterling hollow block. If you have an extension an auto block can and should be off your belay loop, rather than the leg loop.
Brandon.Phillips
From Alabama
Joined May 13, 2011
0 points
Aug 13, 2016
on second thought:
Why?
Brandon.Phillips
From Alabama
Joined May 13, 2011
0 points
Aug 13, 2016
for the record, there has been one fatality canyoning where the autoblock on the leg loop contributed. however, is was a small component that contextually is less important than the judgement of the individual. I i dont like this. its overly complicated and requires too much time. get a 240cm sling fold it in half, pass it through your tie-ins and knot it . you now have 4 strands of webbing making two fully redundant loops off your harness. Rob Warden...Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
0 points
Aug 13, 2016
AHHHHHH! Stop, please! EB
From Winona
Joined Jan 1, 2002
670 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:
for the record, there has been one fatality canyoning where the autoblock on the leg loop contributed. however, is was a small component that contextually is less important than the judgement of the individual. I i dont like this. its overly complicated and requires too much time. get a 240cm sling fold it in half, pass it through your tie-ins and knot it . you now have 4 strands of webbing making two fully redundant loops off your harness.



This?

canyoncollective.com/threads/n...
JoeLars41
Joined Mar 9, 2015
0 points
Aug 13, 2016
K.I.S.S.

Keep It Simple Stupid.

Questions like these are what's ruining climbing.
ClimbLikeAGirl
From Keene Valley
Joined Jun 14, 2015
0 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: mount stupid
mount stupid
Brian Abram
From Celo, NC
Joined Oct 17, 2007
208 points


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