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How Can I Miss You if You Won't Go Away 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FFA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2004
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jan 27, 2011

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Description 

This is on the Top 40 Wall. To the right of If You Won't Leave Me ..., you'll find two cracks. This is the right of the two. Climb a flaring cracking reminiscent of Lumpy to a ledge. Jog right a bit and climb the obvious finger crack to a flake.

An interesting variation is to climb the hand- and fist-crack to the right of the finger crack on the upper portion of the route (bumps the grade up to 8+ or so; big fun on this one). Bring an extra #3 Camalot or equivalent for this variation.

Location 

See the photo for the start. To descend, head climber's left to a large tree with slings. Make a single rappel (about 95 feet) back down to the base of the wall.

Protection 

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Build your own belay anchor at the top.


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