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Mill Creek Dome
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How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 
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MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 
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How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, May 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Dumont
Page Views: 1,371
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 30, 2012

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Pulling past the hook on killer jams.


How can a monkey jump over the ocean? When you are the Son of the Wind, you can just do it! Run up the slab clipping five bolts. I placed two small camming units on the slab. The slab has a 5.9 opening move passing the first bolt. Clip 8 more bolts above the slab. Hard moves run through the corner system and over the roof. Overall, the route has cool moves, hard climbing, and solid rock. Things stay tricky after the roof and run into some 5.11 moves.

Beta note: This route is all about rope management. It ascends a slab to a steep roof, and rope drag will crush the unprepared. My first run through on RP ended up with hideous rope drag above the roof. This can be easily avoided by taking half a dozen quickdraws with slings extended from the top carabiner. Minimally, sling the two upper bolts and cams on the slab, and all three bolts left of the dihedral, after that it is pretty clear sailing and needs no slings. It is a good idea to clip short at first and after the next higher bolt has been clipped, back clip the sling and unclip the short draw. This avoids potentially hitting a ledge when you start up the corner. The roof bolt can be clipped short.


Start in the main alcove, just right of the start to the diagonal route called Cross Cut. This is route "G" in the main photo for the Dome. Looking up toward the roof will make it is easy to find.


13 draws and several small to mid-size camming units, double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 meter rope will rap to the ground.

All photos shot by Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder while on belay, hence the butt shots.

Photos of How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overhead heel hook, cool.
Overhead heel hook, cool.
Rock Climbing Photo: So jump already.
So jump already.
Rock Climbing Photo: Note the missing death block.
Note the missing death block.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the corner.
In the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: How Can Monkey Jump Over The Ocean? This is route ...
BETA PHOTO: How Can Monkey Jump Over The Ocean? This is route ...

Comments on How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 30, 2012

Beta note: The Houlding-Pickles game changer. In the past, we worked out sequences by trading leads with a usually unwilling partner. On The Prophet, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles worked off a Grigri on a fixed line. Leo notes two advantages in his video. First, you can work things out solo, on your own time, without annoying your partner, who needs to show up only on the red point try. Second, the Grigri allows you to build in as much slack as you will ever get on the lead, so when it comes time for the lead, it actually feels like a done deal. What you don't get Houlding-Pickles is rope management. Rope drag over the roof on a Grigri was a non-issue for this route but was a stopper on the first RP run. Also, the Grigri beats working with jumars where more than likely you would be unwilling to take a fall. However, N.B.: switching from jumars to the Grigri is done by switching from a static line to a lead line which allows for a safe fall, just watch the start when you have a lot of rope out.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Aug 27, 2016

I only gave this one burn, so take my observations with me a grain of salt, but I noted a potentially dangerous rope situation when pulling out of the roof onto the final headwall. The rope threaded into a sharp crack and was practically stuck when I tried to move and clip the final bolts. I extended 3-4 bolts before the roof, but I could not find a way to extend the two bolts in the corner sequence (mid-crux). The rope only cleared the crack when I lowered down and unclipped one of the draws. At least for me, extending or unclipping these 2-3 bolts would be quite difficult on a RP or onsight burn. Perhaps moving the bolt at the lip of the roof to the left of the crack will solve this issue. Any thoughts from anyone else who's been on this? That crack is sharp and the thought of falling with my rope in it really wigged me out!

As for gear, I placed a BD 0.3 on the runout section of the slab for peace of mind, but the climbing is not difficult. The 5.12 moves are well-protected on bolts.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Aug 27, 2016

So with all that being said above, would anyone be opposed to me placing extended chain permadraws on the corner bolts and potentially moving the lip bolt if the permadraws don't solve the rope-in-crack issue? Not only is the rope threading an issue, but cleaning those draws when lowering feels just as hard as climbing it! If no one is opposed, I'm happy to do the work.
By slim
Aug 29, 2016

I think you should go ahead and do it, I am pretty sure Richard would be on-board with anything that makes the route better and safer.

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