House of Pain
|Original: || Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]|
|FA: ||Damon Corso / Michael Reardon|
|Page Views: ||220|
|Submitted By: ||AJ on Apr 14, 2015|
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This is a Tram classic and I'm surprised it's not on here. There aren't many 4 star routes in the guidebook and this is definitely one of them.
The line is unmistakable. Follow the right-arching thin crack up, up and over. Perfect rock, although a little gritty...
there was no chalk on it when I visited it late last year and, from talking to people, I get the sense it doesn't get climbed often? If so, that's a shame, it's a sweet line and not far from other gems. Finger crack technique may make it a little easier than its given grade, but regardless, it's a long way down if you blow the topout.
The main reason I wanted to post this is the cool story Robert Miramontes told me about its FA. Apparently Michael Reardon discovered this problem and was psyched to climb it. He put in a session or two but did not send, and then went to Ireland on the trip he never returned from (RIP). His pal Damon Corso came back the next season with a burning psych and climbed the problem, dedicating it to Reardon as a joint FA. I don't know either of these guys but thought it was a touching story, and certainly a great little climb.
Approach from the Boardwalk or, probably easier if you're already there, from the Emerald City. It's not hard to find and detailed directions would only confuse the matter. 20' tall crack facing roughly north.
your standard kit