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House of Pain 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Stewart, Kevin Evansen, Maggie Evansen
Page Views: 2,374
Submitted By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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BETA PHOTO: Red line - House of Pain - 5.11a Yellow Line - Gra...


Fairly easy climbing up to the crux: some bouldery moves to get around the roof. Mind your clipping stances as you do this--you really don't want to have to clip midway through the crux if you can avoid it.

Above the roof is a good rest followed by some much easier climbing to the anchors.


To the left of Helm's Deep, this is the middle set of bolts in the Middle-earth area. Look for the distinctive roof at the second bolt, roughly 15 feet off the deck.



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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Cool route, really sharp flakes. On the traverse in from the left, be careful of what you grab... there are several loose chunks that could really hurt someone. This route is exactly 50 feet long. 5 bolts.
By redlude97
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good route, as noted some loose blocks below the roof could pull out. The choice of Met Rap Hangers for the anchor was a pretty poor choice and makes its a pain to clean on rappel because of the traverse and roof section. Ended up cleaning the last 2 bolts once back the ground by climbing back up to grab them. Considering the other anchors on nearby routes, the lack of chains or quicklinks seems odd
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'll take a look at the loose blocks next time I'm out there and see if they need trundling. As far as the anchor, I'm planning to add rap rings to it soon. However, that actually won't help in back cleaning the route. Due to the anchor being on the opposite side of the arête, coupled with the roof, its just not a good position to back clean and will always be hard to do.
By redlude97
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for doing that Micah, the blocks are loose but pretty secure. Prying them out may affect the integrity of the other holds. Agreed it will never be an easy route to clean but at least with rings or quicklinks you can tram in to get at the bolts of the roof and then go in direct to clean the last two.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 17, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Added Rap Rings on 1/14/15.
By T Banch
From: Aspen, CO
Jul 11, 2015

House of Pain has 6 bolts, not including the anchor.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
May 9, 2016

That third clip is pretty terrible. The first time I lead this route I skipped the clip above the roof and climbed higher up in a desperate attempt to find some good jugs. Bad idea, since that could have easily lead to a ground fall.

Some useful beta: From the left handed undercling and right-handed incut crimp rail underneath the roof it is easy to get a high right foot smear and then (for climbers with smaller feet) a left heel hook into the top niche of the big well-chalked flake which gives access to the third clip without being put in such an awkward, exposed position. Big-footed climbers like myself are SOL and pretty much have to get the clip from the testicle-withering pre-mantel.
By Kev
Aug 10, 2016

Anchor was placed where it is at because of the loose rock out left. The anchor is in the best rock.
By Nathan Collins
From: Portland, OR
Apr 10, 2017

The route photo for Grab n' Go (the route right of of this route) also shows this route.

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