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House of Cards 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian and Abby Thompson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Brian Thompson on Oct 11, 2015

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House of cards is named for the dubious nature of the rock on the first free ascent. After multiple cleanings a dirty fern redirected the party left into the "house of cards". After pulling nearly every good hold off the wall what was left was pretty solid. The route is much cleaner now, but that is what we said after the first two cleaning efforts! Overall a very fun route that takes an enticing path through three overhanging sections and a big dihedral with good position. Gear placement is ample.


The climb starts near where the approach trail meets the cliff. The large arete to the right is "Goes to Eleven". The tree at the base of the cliff is just to the right of the start of the climb. Climb up onto a small block to reach the splitter hand crack with the fern in it. This slightly overhanging section is intimidating but fun. The next stretch makes its way up through steep (second overhang) broken rock toward the tip of a prominent arete. Pass this on the right and continue up into the dihedral. Follow the crack up toward the block and final overhang. Don't place gear behind the block it feels solid and we couldn't pry if off with a crowbar, but looks detached. Pull this overhang with good holds and clip the chains up top.


Top rope. Trad. Standard rack. Smaller cams useful. Several pieces in the 1-2" range very useful.
If throwing ropes be careful not to get them caught in the tree at the bottom.

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