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House Broken 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Ed Wade on Aug 24, 2012

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Description 

Start up a toothy handcrack and then drift onto face climbing when the crack ends. Move on up the right side of the blunt arete to the horizontal. Traverse to the left to the anchors that are common to all the routes on this face. Nice position on the upper face and well protected. A climb well worth doing when in the area. Tape up.

Location 

Start in crack at far right end of ledge just to the left of a steep tree fulled gully. Single rope rappel.

Protection 

Small gear up to #2 camalot. Bolted anchors.


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By K Baumgartner
Oct 18, 2015

If you like run-out slab climbing, this is the route for you. I disagree that this line is well-protected. There's at least a 20 foot runout from the mid point on the slab to the roof horizontal.

The hand crack to start is surprisingly nice. Make a few delicate moves above the crack to a micro ledge on the right. Move up in the right facing flake to grab gear.

When you reach the small shrub cross over to the left side to get more pro, then move back to the center.

Then, begin the runout. A fall wouldn't be nice.

Doable, but you need to accept the consequences of a big fall in a remote place.

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