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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1989)
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Nov 30, 2011

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This route may be your best bet if you're looking for an entry level 5.12 at the Cirque. If nothing else it will allow you to sample some of the smooth marble stone that the Cirque is known for.

The difficulties are met immediately as you pull off the ground. The opening moves are quite bouldery so it would make sense to pre clip the first or second bolt. After digesting the start, pleasant 5.10 climbing takes you through an assortment of downward pulling jugs and sidepulls.

The second crux involves making a rightward traverse on an undercling flake. The footholds seem to be too high for any level of comfort to be achieved. This section is awkward and scrunchy and sure to put you in a bad mood if this is your first experience at the Cirque.

The funnest moves are found after clipping the last bolt. For full credit move straight up the face on some micro sidepulls, making sure to move your feet up nice and high. Make one last desperate reach (or jump) for a nice ledge. Mantle the ledge and clip the anchor. This final exciting crux can be avoided by climbing a little right of the bolt line.

This route is on the left side of the cirque and gets wet due to the fact that it is near vertical.


The first notable line on the left side of the cirque. The bottom of the cliff is undercut and a pile of cheater stones is present.


7 bolts + anchor

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By BrianWS
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Really fun route and very unique movement. The second crux is easier for smaller climbers - being able to jam the feature makes the sequence about 10+ or 11- tops.
The final crux is quite difficult for the grade, moreso the shorter you are. It went clean at 5'7, but required a full out huck.
Traversing right from the final bolt sets you up for a slightly easier, but much more heads up, finish. A fall exiting the crux of this variation would slam the leader into the dihedral down and left. This sequence can be protected with a finger sized cam and long runners in both the cam and the previous bolt. This still feels about 12-, but climbs a much more natural and less height dependent line

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