Hound's Tooth Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Hound's Tooth approach routes. USGS 7.5' quadrang...
Straddling the high ridge between Deaf Smith and Ferguson Canyons, the Hounds Tooth often beckons climbers as they traverse the Salt Lake Valley. Guarded by a thicket bailing-wire-like scrub oak, it is seldom approached and rarely climbed. Eroding out of the hillside at the edge of the Little Cottonwood Stock, the granite is gritty at best, disintegrating at worst. This is a great place to loose the crowds, but a terrible place to loose your foothold. Outside of major features, gear is usually sparse and marginal. Vague routes grace nearly every aspect, but only a couple have made their way into the climbing literature. Expect adventure climbing in an incredible setting overlooking Salt Lakes blight and North Thunders delights.
The Hound Dentition is nearly surrounded by a 3000 foot moat of heavy brush. Pick your poison- they all come with inherent trouble. Expect 1.5 hours to 3 hours based upon your fitness and pounds of metal lugged. For the standard West Ridge route, approach from the west foothills rising out of the "Top of the World" subdivisions. Find a legal parking spot (can be hard to come by) within the foothill neighborhoods and beeline directly up the hill to a small valley below the west face. At about 7300 ft turn slightly south and catch a minor ridge leading up to the West Ridge (obvious). Or alternatively, park at the Ferguson Canyon trailhead and head directly up the hill past the sad Brighton B and onto various game and humanoid social trails (seems to have less brush). Or finally approach from the Deaf Smith trail and side canyon which deposits you on the backside of the monolith. The north face is best approached from the Ferguson Canyon trail which is followed through the switchbacks at about 7000 feet and then up an eroding gully to the steep face (this route entails the least bushwacking). The top of the Hounds Tooth is nearly 8150 feet and parking is near 5200 feet so hop on the Stairmaster and expect some vertical.
As a note... yes... I know the Hound's Tooth isn't entirely found in Ferguson Canyon. Nor is it found entirely in Deaf Smith, or fit the general criteria for a "Wasatch Alpine Route". But it seemed lame to bog down the primary Wasatch Range directory with another area that could fit elsewhere and feel just as comfortable. If admin feels it belongs elsewhere- feel free to move as needed.
Climbing Season For the Ferguson Canyon area.
Weather station 1.3 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Hound's Tooth
West Ridge, Northwest Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Hound's Tooth
The Northwest/West Face (...of the west flange of the Tooth) is a broken selection of exfoliating slabs, rotting cracks, and other avoidable conditions. The route follows perhaps the longest, most consistent line on the face weaving between protectionless slabs, crumbing formations, and patches of dirt. Despite the relative poor conditions, some decent climbing is found. A helmet is mandatory metallica- everyone is guaranteed at least one bashing no matter how careful you are.Pitch one: start...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
BETA PHOTO: Hound's Tooth from the northwest.
By Spencer Daniels
Sep 4, 2013
Does anyone know if there is water by the hounds tooth?