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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Hound Dog 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgraber & Dave Fixx
Page Views: 5,077
Submitted By: slevin on Jul 10, 2001

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  • Description 

    On the left side of Bell Buttress, at a tree flush against the wall, is this excellent, well-protected route. The climbing is good from bottom to top, with good crimpy edges and a reachy crux somewhere by the 8th bolt. The bolted line which extends up and left from the 8th bolt is "Freak on a Leash" (5.12d, F.A. Steve Sangdahl & Chip Rockgrabber), an exercise in devious, hard-to-figure-out moves. By the way, Hound Dog has been led using gear and clipping only two of the bolts (an exercise in deviousness of a different nature!).


    9 [or 10] draws and something for the anchor.

    Photos of Hound Dog Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nice face climbing.
    Nice face climbing.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Jensen heading to the crux on Hound Dog, BC Be...
    Tom Jensen heading to the crux on Hound Dog, BC Be...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the route....
    Looking up the route....

    Comments on Hound Dog Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 19, 2016
    By Scott Hudson
    Jul 27, 2001

    One of the best bolted lines in Boulder Canyon of this grade. The climbing is sustained and the crux well protected. The finishing moves are now protected by a bolt and a cam is no longer needed for the 5.9 exit moves.
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Aug 12, 2001

    I have to concur on this one; steep and relatively sustained, but well protected. Just don't blow the second clip or you'll have the tree stump anal probe experience.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2002
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Awfully easy for 11a. Seems like a good first 5.11 for people.
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jul 17, 2002

    All comments relevant to the trad/bolted/headpointing/ethics discussion has been moved to the features section of the site (should show up tommorrow). Geez, I leave for a week and all hell breaks loose. :-)
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 11, 2003

    Great climb, but if you are 5'2" or under, it is a very powerful reachy crux on sh*ty holds.
    By patrick kadel
    Jul 18, 2006
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    At 5'7", the crux moves felt hard to me, but I think if you are 5'10" or taller, you avoid the difficulties. Maybe for the taller, the crux is located elsewhere as the hold 6" above my crux is very positive. So I'll chime in with 10+/11- and if you can reach 6" more than me I'll guess sustained 10-???

    Overall, a nice climb to do while visiting Bell Buttress.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    May 19, 2009

    The crux is certainly height dependent. My 6' partner cruised it, I found it about right at 11a and I'm 5'8". Our third party member, at 5'2" could not get the crux move clean.
    By brain damage
    Jun 11, 2011
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I had a hell of a time with the crux being 5'5". I moved left to some decent/crimpy side pulls and was able to barely pull the crux that way. I tried going straight up and was about 5" too short. This move is very height dependent. I give it 11a/b.
    By mtoensing
    From: Boulder
    Sep 15, 2011
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    They should have named this route something to do with the fact that if you fall at the start, you are going to be violated mercilessly by the tree. It would be a very unpleasant experience, but the climbing is pretty easy at the start.
    By Jeff Nehls
    Jun 20, 2012

    Great route. Pleasantly large holds for clipping. Mostly 5.10 moves with a few 5.11 cruxes.
    By Carl Schaefer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 17, 2016
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Actually has ten bolts before the anchor.
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Sep 19, 2016
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Really fun! Almost every move was good, very sustained. One of the best in the canyon at the grade. I'm 6'2", and it still felt 11ish. The pump was formidable.

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