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Bloody Fingers Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breezeway T 
Featured Face T 
Hough's Crack T 
Intruding Dike T 

Hough's Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Hough '80s
Page Views: 1,732
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 6, 2004

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Beta photo showing most of the route.

Description 

On the North side of the Lower Breadloaf are two obvious 5.7 cracks. Hough's is the right of the two (the other is called Intruding Dike). Climb up the crack with an awkward bulge move, then wander left up higher to a handcrack. Top this out, and set a gear anchor.

To descend, wander up the formation, then look on the east side of the formation for a one rope rappel (60m rope). This is on top of Bloody Fingers (thin 5.10a crack).

Protection 

Standard Rack from small up to hand size.


Photos of Hough's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Hough's Crack; the right crack is the rou...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Hough's Crack; the right crack is the rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter leading Hough's Crack at City of Rocks
Peter leading Hough's Crack at City of Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloa...
BETA PHOTO: Intruding Dike and Hough's Crack on Lower Breadloa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Con on Hough's Crack
Con on Hough's Crack

Comments on Hough's Crack Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 17, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a decent climb, but mostly easy climbing with a couple of tricky crux moves. Not as good as its neighbor Intruding Dike.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 11, 2005

In the photo below, Peter is climbing off to the left. When I climbed this, I chose the crack to the right in topping out. I am not sure which crack is "on route", however, I felt like the climbing never got beyond 5.6. However, it is really fun moves. The whole climb is short and sweet. Perhaps the crux 5.7 is above where Peter headed?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The crux for us was definitely the upper crack on the left.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 14, 2011

I wouldn't recommend descending this by rapping off of the super-popular Bloody Fingers... Is this what most people do?! Can't say I've ever done it (or seen it done). After bringing up your second, head down the 4th class chimney to the north (climber's right).
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The crux was definitely the last bit of down-climbing to get back to the ground...haha. Seriously, I freaked out more with the downclimb then the actual climb! This climb was actually really enjoyable though. Worth doing if Intruding Dike is busy.
By Chris Doobtrain
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 8, 2013

My first trad lead!