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Sugarloaf
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California Reamin' T 
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Mechanic, The T 
Power Smart T,TR 
Stairway T,TR 
Thriller Off the Void T 

Hotwire 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 326
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Follow a flake and crack up and leftward, through a blocky scoop and passing abulging overhang. Small cams and nuts can be placed, but gear requires some finesse and thought. Eventually, face climbing on positive edges leads to lower-angle terrain at the top.

Location 

This route is on the Sugarloaf wall, around to the far right side. From the large group of easier climbs, head right, and just past the thin crack/seam "Thriller off the Void".

Protection 

Small cams and nuts. The only "anchors" at the top are the power transformers.


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By Raddam6
Sep 13, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A lot of fun but not a good first warmup if you are looking at getting on the area's 11's.
By Gavin W
From: Surrey, BC
Aug 6, 2016

Beautiful line, but very finicky gear placements. Bring multiples of small cams, I took a 15-footer onto a #0 C3 right before I gave up on my attempt.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

You can get a 'nest' of two to three finger cams right before the little run on the face. None are spectacular, but I felt solid above three of them.

Fun little route. Only strenuous for a few moves, and the face up high is probably not the crux.

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