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Hot Wee Wee 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: [Henry Barber, 1973]
Page Views: 6,054
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Heather cruising up the fun, easy P3.


This is the giant, left-facing corner that splits the center of the Ophir Wall. It can also be located by following the grassy slope below the wall to its highest point. The first pitch is barely 5th class and many parties do not rope up for it. Much cleaner and straightforward than P.O. Crack.

1) 100 feet. 5.2? Start in corner, head up and right on easy ledges. End pitch 10 or 20 ft. below a blank looking left facing corner. No fixed anchors, a few different cracks are available.

2) 150 feet. 5.9 Face climb out left from the blank corner into a small alcove, exit alcove up and right and continue up the corner. About 30 ft. above the alcove 2 options exist. One is to traverse right to easier ground with rope drag potential. The other is to stick with corner. This is a long pitch which ends on a spacious ledge about 40 ft. left of the giant, left-facing corner.

3) 110 feet. 5.7 Climb corner to ledge with belay out left.

4) 100 feet. 5.7 Continue up corner to ledge with belay out left.

5) 60 feet. 5.9 Continue up corner with a short offwidth/chimney section to the end of the corner.

Traverse left 30 feet to anchor and rap back through your last couple belay stances (you will be rapping over Black Primo, 5.9R). When you have reached the giant ledge which is the end of pitch 2, I would recommend continuing out right (climber's) and down another 40 feet to a bolted anchor that is not visible from above. This will take you to 2 double rope rappels via new chain anchors. If done this way, you will end up a couple hundred feet right of the start of the route.


Double set of cams, set of stoppers, some long runners, one optional big piece.

Photos of Hot Wee Wee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick cleaning up shop on the final OW pitch of Hot...
Nick cleaning up shop on the final OW pitch of Hot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew McLean enjoying  P5.   The crux was removing ...
Drew McLean enjoying P5. The crux was removing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing views from the wall.
Amazing views from the wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: The wide section of the final pitch.
The wide section of the final pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan B. working though the face climbing on pitch ...
Ryan B. working though the face climbing on pitch ...

Comments on Hot Wee Wee Add Comment
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By Victor McConnell
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2007

Great climb. This was the first route I did in the Telluride area. And it was typical of everything I found climbing in this area to be: diverse, challenging, packed with history and situated in a beautiful setting. And it was a rare day in that we ran into some other climbers (Paul Ross, who was climbing the route with his son). The final 5.9 offwidth is pretty stout. There is also a 5.9(R?) face climbing variation on the face to the left called Black Primo.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My partner and I did this route in three LONG pitches from the base to the final anchor cable with a 70m rope. I built an anchor on the second pitch after climbing over the roof. There are a lot of bolted belays (and rap stations) so it's best to have a plan before starting.
By Andrew McLean
From: Colorado
Jun 20, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you only have time for one route on Ophir Wall this is the one!

#5 Camalot was "nice to have" for the p5 crux. Not to worry thought P5 is NOT and off width climb and it is NOT a chimney climb. For us it seemed like technical stemming up a corner with a wide crack that only takes big gear near the top.

The P2 5.9 was the technical crux of the route. Excellent 5.9 face climbing on featured and well protected face.

Get on it!
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Aug 24, 2011

Really only one single move of 5.9 climbing in my opinion. Nice long route; it's nice to get off the ground for a change.
By darren
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 18, 2012

On what is described as pitch 4 above, there was a wide slot with quite a few rocks that looked ready to fall if they were touched. Try and avoid jamming yourself in there, some of the rocks were pretty big.
By Dan.Schultz
From: SW Colorado
Nov 23, 2013

Are double ropes required for the rap?
By SMH Climber
From: Midvale, UT
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Wow exciting climb lots of fun though. It does require 2 ropes for the rappel.
By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
Jul 3, 2017

Carried a #4.5 and never placed it. You can sling chockstones on the last pitch, whose abundant face holds render it no harder than 5.8.

Ditto the rap beta: instead of rapping off the slung flake at the top of P2, trend right around an arete to new chain anchors. On the next rap, you can either stop after 80' to mediocre bolts and tat, or continue another 50' down and right to bolts and rings.

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