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Hot Tuna 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Follet, 1996
Page Views: 3,038
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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hot tuna, mickey's beach

Description 

On the West (Oceanside) face, this is the route under the lower and diagonally facing roof in the center of the wall that has bolts on the roof.

Climb to and then use the crack under the roof using all the feet you can find, hanging on to the overhung rock.

Climbing is pumpy, and there are two cruxes, clipping the third bolt and clipping the top anchors.

Also note that the 'bad bolts' that older books refer to have been replaced. The new ones work great.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


Photos of Hot Tuna Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hot Tuna from a ways back at lower tide.  The firs...
BETA PHOTO: Hot Tuna from a ways back at lower tide. The firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the 2nd
Above the 2nd
Rock Climbing Photo: Sometimes things get tougher when you only have on...
Sometimes things get tougher when you only have on...

Comments on Hot Tuna Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route makes a good "first .12"
By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 15, 2011

super fun movements in a great setting, only had one go and sat at the crux and then the sun went down, need to come back soon - mickey's is so fun!
By Caliza
Mar 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Good route, this has become the Mickey's beach warm up. :)
By Alex Motal
Jun 14, 2015

Fun route, with good movement (super cool drop knee's). Clipping the chains is a bit tricky. Watch out for crabs!
By Caliza
Aug 2, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

All these years I did this the hard way not knowing there was a giant foot out on the left side of the roof on the arete at the crux that people use for a drop knee. Didn't use the drop knee but did use the foot to lieback the crux, 3rd bolt. This foot makes the crux not even cruxy. Personally I think it's 11c, but I like crimps and liebacks so this could just be playing to me strengths.
By obiss
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

If you're hanging your own draws this isn't relevant, but if you're hanging for your own redpoint or for someone else, an extended draw for the 3rd bolt is a good idea to prevent a nasty swinging fall if you bail trying to clip there.